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1 ctory Edition. 1919 

WAR GARDENING 

and Home Storage of\fegetables 




Publislied b^r 

National War Garden Commission 

Washington, D. C . 



Copyright 1919 by NATIONAL WAR GARDEN COMMISSION 



WAR DEPARTMENT 

WASHINGTON 

June 7, 1918. 
NATIONAL WAR GARDEN COMMISSION, 
Washington, d, c. 

Dear Sirs: 

The War Department finds much satisfaction in the creation of War Gardens 
at various army camps by the Conservation and Reclamation Division of the 
Quartermaster General's office. Food production at these camps has been the 
subject of some concern with the department. The large areas of tillable land 
within many of the military reservations have been regarded as offering potential 
food production on a large scale, and I feel that the army is to be congratulated 
that the utilization of this space has now taken concrete form. 

Camp War Gardens will serve more than one useful purpose. The pro- 
duction of food at the mess door is of great importance in that it not only lessens 
the army's demand on the usual sources of supply but eliminates transportation 
as well. 

To the National War Garden Comm.ission I extend the thanks of the Depart- 
ment for its quick response to the appeal of the Quartermaster General's office 
for co-operation. Not confining itself to mere compliance with the letter of the 
request, the Commission entered fully into its spirit. At a time when funds 
were not available through Government channels the Commission voluntarily 
provided seed, fertilizers and equipment which made possible the establishment 
of a War Garden of 300 acres or more at Camp Dix. For this generous contri- 
bution and for swift action to overcome the handicap of a late start I take pleasure 
in making this acknowledgment and in expressing the hope that the Camp Dix 
War Garden of the National War Garden Commission will prove an unqualified 
success. 

Cordially yours, 

(Signed) NEWTON D. BAKER, 

Secretary of War. 



UNITED STATES FOOD ADMINISTRATION 

Baltimore, Maryland. 
September 14, 1918. 
NATIONAL WAR GARDEN COMMISSION, 
Maryland Building, 

Washington, D. C, 

Gentlemen: 

We wish to express to you our appreciation of your helpfulness in our war 
garden, canning and drying work in Maryland during the season of 1918. Your 
book on canning and drying has been of great value, while the canning outfits 
which you so kindly gave us made it possible for us to establish canning centers 
throughout the State, with results of far-reaching importance which could not have 
been otherwise accomplished. We are equally appreciative of your prompt and 
willing response to our request for the services of one of your trained investigators 
to assist in our war garden work. Your spirit of prompt and willing service is 
cordially appreciated. 

Yours truly, 

(Signed) EDWIN G. BAETJER, 

Federal Food Administrator for Maryland. 



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MAKE YOUR WAR GARDEN 
A GARDEN OF VICTORY 

By CHARLES LATHROP PACK, President 

National War Garden Commission 



AMERICA'S responsibility for 
the world's food supply did 
L not stop with the ending 
of the war. In peace, as in conflict, 
this country must carry the burden 
of Europe's food problems. With 
the advent of peace these problems 
have become intensified. America is 
now expected to furnish the solution 
and this can be done only through 
the continued application of high 
pressure food production and un- 
wavering food conservation. 

For two years of war the War 
Gardens of America produced food- 
stuffs which helped establish the 
balance of power between starvation 
and abundance. In the spring of 
1918, General Haig declared, "We 
stand with our backs to the wall." 
Of that call to the civilized world no 
phase was more vital than its inter- 
pretation and answer in terms of 
food. During that year the answer 
was given by the American people 
with true American spirit. The war 
gardeners of the United States re- 
sponded with a vigor which carried 
the War Gardens over the top to 
victory. By the addition of more 
than five hundred million dollars of 
crop value to this country's food 
production they made it easier for 
America to feed het own people and 
the people of France and Belgium. 



The Victory Garden is now as 
vital as the War Garden. Peace 
brings new food needs. In reclaim- 
ing territory from the enemy France 
and Belgium have greatly increased 
the number of their people who must 
be fed. By restoring these former 
expatriates to citizenship these coun- 
tries have also assumed the burden 
of feeding them. This will mean a 
vast increase in the demands on 
America as the source of Europe's 
food supply in. 1919. Europe can- 
not feed herself during the first year 
of reconstruction; Russia faced famine 
conditions in the winter of 19 18- 
1919, and Mr. Hoover says that the 
world's food shortage will last for 
another seven years. 

The war gardener's responsibility, 
therefore, did not end with the com- 
ing of peace. His War Garden must 
now be made a Victory Garden in 
the full sense of the words. It must 
help solve the problem of feeding 
people rendered helpless by years 
of ruthless and terrible vvar. 

The garden crop of 19 19 must be 
even greater than that of 191 8, and 
there must be more canning and dry- 
ing for winter use. The people of 
America have a real duty to perform 
in this respect and the nation counts 
confidently on full measure of in- 
dividual response. 



PLAN OF GARDEN 50 by 75 feet, in which careful attention has been paid to proper relation of 
the season's crops and to a continuous supply of the more important vegetables. 



Hot Bed 


Cold Frame 


Asparagus 


Rhubarb 



ARRANGEMENT OF SEASON'S CROPS 



Peas, followed by late Tomatoes 



Peas, followed by Celery 



Onion Sets, followed by Turnips 



Corn, followed by Spinach 



Beans (bush), followed by Beets 



Beets, 32 row; Carrots, y? row, followed by Corn 



Turnips, followed by Bush Beans 



Potatoes, followed by Spinach 



Spinach, followed by Potatoes 



Cabbage, with Lettuce and Radishes between, followed by Carrots 



Beans, Bush Lima 



Chard, ^4 row; Parsley, J4 row- 



Parsnips, 34 row (radishes to mark row); Salsify, 34 row 
Corn, followed by Kohlrabi, ^4 row; Cauliflower, 3^ row 



Peas, followed by Corn 



Beans, Bush Lima 



Early Potatoes, followed by late Cabbage 
Early Tomatoes 



Peppers, 3^ row; Potatoes, Okra or Eggplant, 3^ row 



Potatoes 



Potatoes 



Pole Lima Beans 



Pole Beans 



Corn 



Corn 



Corn 



Cucumbers 



Squash 



(bush 



crook neck) 



Squash 



(winter) 



Musk- 



melon 



Rows are 30 inches apart. If soil iS very fertile rows may be closer. 

Planting was begun at hotbed end of garden and plantings were made a few days, apart 
to insure a constant supply of vegetables. Planting table on page 23. 



PART I 

WAR GARDENING MANUAL 

As a result of emergency created by war the home garden of America has 
become an institution of world-wide importance. The planting and growing 
season of 1918 demonstrated that the products thus raised are essential to the 
feeding of the people of the United States and'the Allied Nations, Under the 
impetus given by the National War Garden Commission the people of this 
country last year produced a crop valued at $520,000,000 in gardens cultivated 
in backyards, on vacant lots and on other land previously untilled — the 
patriotic gift of the war gardens to the nation. 

'Peace can in no wise diminish America's responsibility for feeding 
Europe. The recovery of vast areas of devastated country in France and 
Belgium greatly increases the number of people to be fed and adds heavily 
to the food burden of America. Because of this the Victory Garden is no 
less necessary than the War Garden. 



WAR GARDENS HELP SOLVE TRAFFIC PROBLEM 



War-time brought the most serious traffic 
congestion the United States has ever seen. 
This condition has no meaning more signifi- 
cant than that the gardens of this year must 
do even more than those of 1918 in freeing the 
overburdened railroads from the need for 
transporting food products. \\'ith food short- 
age threatening the Allied Nations and with 
railroad congestion as an added factor, the 
war garden results of the coming season must 
be considerably greater even than the vast 
yield of last year. 

COMMUNITY GARDENING 

Excellent results are obtained through co- 
operative gardening work. If several fami- 
lies join forces they can reduce the cost of 
gardening in time, labor and money. Fami- 
lies having adjoining or neighboring garden 
plots may use one set of tools. To prevent 
clash of convenience it is well to have an 
understanding in advance as to the time 
when each gardener is to have the use of 
particular tools. By this arrangement it is 
possible to have complete equipment at ex- 
pense much less than if each gardener bought 
his own. Money can also be saved in buying 
seeds, fertilizers and spraying materials by 
clubbing together and gaining advantage of 
the lower prices for large lots. 

One of the advantages of doing commu- 
nity work is that it is possible for the gar- 
deners interested in the project to employ a 
man and a team to prepare their gardens by 
plowing and harrowing. In this way the 
man and team can be kept busy throughout 



the day and the expense to each gardener 
will be slight. 

On a larger scale this principle should be 
applied to garden plots on tracts of vacant 
land allotted to individuals in or near cities 
or towns. Each plot in such a tract is a 
separate garden, belonging to the individual 
or family to whom allotted. In many in- 
stances the municipal authorities, the mayor's 
war garden committee or some similar local 
organization, will provide an expert to super- 
vise work on community gardens of this 
character. This expert will give advice and 
instructions as to preparation, planting and 
cultivation and on other technical subjects. 

If an expert is not provided in this way it 
is wise for the gardeners to club together and 
arrange for one at their own expense, if the 
project is large enough to make this possible 
without too great individual cost. The help 
of an expert is of great value. 

School children and parents may work to- 
gether to good advantage on these garden 
plots. In some communities school au- 
thorities allow the children to spend a por- 
tion of the school hours, on stated days, in 
their garden work. Through co-operation 
with street cleaning departments a munici- 
pal government may arrange to deliver 
manure to war gardeners at nominal cost. 
In at least one important city this is done at 
a charge of $2 per load. 

It is a good plan for municipal govern- 
ments to arrange for lectures at school 
houses or other places on practical problems 
in gardening. This increases efficiency. 



WAR GARDENING 










Fig. 1 — A community garden which produced excellent results. The ground was provided by a manufacturing 
concern for its employes and the plowing anf! harrowing were done by the company. E.xpert supervisors directed 
the worlj;. This supervision is an important help to successful gardening. 



CORPORATION GARDENS 

Manufacturing concerns, and other enter- 
prises which employ labor on a large scale, 
may make valuable contribution to the 
national food supply by encouraging their 
employees to cultivate war gardens. Many 
concerns furnish large tracts of land, which 
are divided into individual garden plots. 
These plots are allotted to such employes as 
are willing to cultivate them. Each plot and 
everything it produces are recognized as the 
individual property of its cultivator. The 
company bears the expense of plowing and 
fertilizing these plots and emj^loys an expert 
to have charge. 

HOW TO HAVE A GOOD GARDEN 
Garden Plan 

Have a plan for your garden — drawn to 
scale on paper — before you start, to give 
proper order in planting and enable you to 
buy the right amount of seeds in adviince 
while the selection is good. 

Put in one general group small plants like 
beets, onions, lettuce, carrots, radishes and 
parsnips. In another general group put 
larger plants like corn, tomatoes and pota- 
toes. Spreading ground vines, like melons 
and cucumbers, which need wider spacing, 
should be put in another general group. The 
reason for this grouping is that the various 
plants in a group need similar general treat- 
ment as well as spacing. 

In making a plan provide space in which 
to enter costs and yield of the various crops. 
This will give you a complete record w^hich 
will be useful another year. Another help- 
ful use of the plan is that it will guide you in 
the rotation of next year's crops. For this 
purpose save your plan for next season. 

In planning your garden formulate some 
definite plan as to what you will do with 
surplus vegetables. Detailed instructions for 
home storage of vegetables for winter use are 
given in Part II of this booklet. Detailed 
instructions for canning, drying, pickling and 



other forms of conservation are given in the 
Home Manual on these subjects issued by 
this Commission. 

Sunshine 

In the location of a garden it is not always 
possible to choose conditions as to sunlight. 
It is important, therefore, that in the ar- 
rangement of the various varieties of vege- 
tables which are to be planted, due care 
should be given to providing the greatest 
exposure to the sun for those crops which 
need it most. Those plants which must ripen 
their fruits, such as tomatoes and eggplant, 
require the greatest amount of sunshine, 
while lettuce, spinach, kale and other leaf 
crops require relatively less. Foliage crops 
must have at least 3 hours of sunlight a day 
and plants which ripen fruits at least 5 hours 
a day. This is important. 

Vary from Last Year's Plan 

It is important to remember that plant 
diseases and insects are apt to thrive in a 
spot in which they have become established. 
For this reason those who make gardens 
this year should take care not to place the 
individual crops in the spot in which the 
same crops grew last year. Varying the ar- 
rangement of the garden in this way will reduce 
the danger from disease and insects. The 
same vegetables in the same place each year 
exhaust certain food elements, and reduced 
yields are sure to result. 

SURPLUS PRODUCTS 

At times, even with the best of planning, 
a gardener will find that his garden has 
matured more of some varieties of vegetables 
than can be used immediately. None of this 
excess should be wasted and there is no 
occasion for waste. If there is no ready 
market for the surplus it should be prepared 
for winter by either canning or drying. By 
modern methods either canning or drying 
may be done with little expense of time, 
trouble or financial outlay. By using the 



THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 



cold-pack method as small a quantity as a 
single can or jar may be put up in a short 
time. With proper instructions it is possible 
for the housewife to dry a handful of peas or 
beans, sweet corn, a few sweet potatoes or 
turnips, or small quantities of many other 
vegetables with practically no expenditure of 
her time. Explicit and simple directions for 
canning and drying are given in the Manual 
issued by the National War Garden Com- 
mission. 

THE SOIL AND MANURES 

The back yard ga.dener must use the soil 
he has, but he can improve it if is poor, and 
he must do this as far as possible. Stable 
manure will help even the 
richest soil, and you are 
not likely to use too much 
of it. During a single season 
professional gardeners apply 
as much as six inches of it. 
From 400 to 600 pounds can 
be used to advantage on a 
plot 20 by 20 feet. Coarse 
manure should be applied 
and thoroughly plowed or 
spaded under in the fall. 
In the spring, fine, rotted F'S- 2 — This shows the construction of an outdoor cold frame. A hotbed is 
]■ 1 • , built in the same way, except that for the hotbed a pit and manure are required. 
manure is ^ appiiea, just See page 7 for directions for making cold frames and hotbeds. 
before plowing or spading, 
preceding the planting of any crop. 



containing 3 to 4 per cent nitrogen and 8 to 10 
per cent phosphoric acid is about right for the 
average garden. Your dealer will inform 
you on this point. If the fertilizer also con- 
tains potash, so much the better, but this year 
potash is scarce and high in price. 

Where no manure is used the fertilizer 
should be spread over the surface of the finely 
prepared seed-bed at the rate of 5 pounds 
for a plot 10 feet square, just before planting. 
The surface soil should then be thoroughly 
raked so as to mix the fertilizer evenly to a 
depth of 2 inches. Never place seed or trans- 
planted plants in direct contact with fertilizer. 
Thorough mixing of the fertilizer with the soil 
is essential to prevent injury of seed or roots. 




If the 

ground is fairly rich, and well-rotted manure 
is scarce, the manure may be scattered in the 
row only, and should be mixed into the soil 
before the planting of seed. 

Loam is the best garden soil. Sand, with 
manure, gives good results. Clay is hardest 
to work, but is greatly improved by well- 
rotted manure and vegetable matter — called 
humus. These should be well worked in 
with hoe and rake. Sifted coal ashes, en- 
tirely free from clinkers, will help loosen up 
clay when mixed into it, but will not remove 
an acid condition nor increase fertility. 



Where manure has been worked into the 
soil, reduce the fertilizer application ap- 
proximately one-half. 

Tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes, spinach and 
some other crops requiring rather long growing 
seasons, are materially benefited by a second 
application of fertilizer when half grown. 
Side dressings of this kind should be scattered 
between the rows at the rate of four ounces 
(one-half pint) to 10 feet of row, when rows 
are spaced 2 feet apart; and pro rata for rows . 
spaced a greater or lesser distance. To insure 
even distribution mix the fertilizer with fine, 
dry earth just before spreading. 



Commercial Fertilizer 

Many gardeners experience difficulty in 
obtaining supplies of well-rotted manure. 
In such cases commercial fertilizers should 
be used. Even where stable manure has 
been secured and worked into the soil it is 
well to supplement with moderate quantities 
of quick-acting fertilizer in order to give 
plants an early start and hasten maturity. 

It is safest to rely upon the ready-mixed 
fertilizers usually obtainable at seed and 
hardware stores. Several specially prepared 
mixtures in convenient packages are now on 
the market. For large areas, 100 to 200- 
pound bags may be obtained. A mixture 



Compost 

Compost is especially desirable when 
quick growth is wanted. Compost is thor- 
oughly rotted manure or organic material. 
It is prepared from six to twelve months 
before being used, by putting the manure 
and other material in piles having perpen- 
dicular sides and flat tops. These piles 
are usually from 2 to 4 feet high and 6 to 8 
feet long. 

Besides the usual waste of garden rubbish, 
there is a large waste of leaves, weeds and 
the skins and other unused portions of fruits 
and vegetables. These should all be thrown 
on the compost pile to decay for use on the 



WAR GARDENING 



garden next spring. Destroy all plants which 
are diseased. The compost pile should be 
built up in alternate layers of vegetable 
refuse a foot thick and earth an inch or more 
thick. The earth helps to rot the vegetable 
matter when mixed with it. The top of the 
pile should be left flat that the rain may enter 
and help in the process of decay. 

If the pile can be forked over once a month 
when not frozen and the contents well mixed 
together, they will decay quite rapidly and 
be in good usable condition in the spring. 
The compost may be either spread over the 
garden and plowed under or it may be scat- 
tered in the rows before the seed are sown. 
This is, of course, not as rich as stable manure, 
but it is a good substitute. 

Compost is also used as a top dressing dur- 
ing the growing season for hastening growth. 

In the cities and towns tons of leaves are 
burned every fall. This is a loss which ought 
to be prevented. These leaves properly 
composted with other vegetable waste and 
earth would be worth hundreds of dollars to 
the gardens next spring. 

In planning a permanent garden, a space 
should be reserved near the hotbed or seed 
bed, and in this space should be piled, as 
soon as pulled, all plants which are free from 
diseases and insects. This applies to all 
vegetables and especially to peas and beans, 
as these belong to a group of plants which 
take nitrogen from the air, during growth, 
and store it in their roots. When these plants 
are decayed they will return to the soil not 
only much of the plant food taken from it 
during their growth but additional nitrogen 
as well. Nitrogen in the soil is necessary 
for satisfactory leaf growth. The material 
so composted should be allowed to decay 
throughout the winter, and when 
needed should be used according to 
the instructions given for using 
compost. The sweepings of pigeon 
lofts or chicken coops make valu- 
able fertilizer. When cleaning roosts 
from day to day add K as 
much acid phosphate as 
sweepings. When needed 
apply 1 pound of this mix- 
ture to every 5 square 
feet of ground, mixing it 
thoroughly into the soil. 




Prepared sheep manure, where procurable 
at a reasonable price, is possibly the safest 
concentrated fertilizer. It should be used in 
small quantities rather than spread broad- 
cast. Scatter it along the row before seed is 
sown or apply by mixing it with water in a 
pail, stirring the mixture to the consistency of 
thin mush, and pouring it along the rows of 
the plants. 

Green Manure 

Green manure is useful as a fertilizer. It 
consists of green plants turned under by 
plowing or spading. Rye is the most satis- 
factory for this purpose. If planted in July 
or August the crop may be turned under in 
the fall if early spring planting is desired. 
If planted later, it is usually turned under in 
the spring. When not turned under until 
spring, the growth will prevent the leaching of 
soluble plant food or the washing away of 
rich soil. 

In sowing rye for this purpose, use at the 
rate of 1 pound of seed to a strip of ground 
50 feet long and 10 feet wide. If the ground 
is rough or hard it should be cultivated just 
before the seed is sown, and then cultivated 
again to cover the seed. Sow the seed be- 
tween the rows of crops not yet gathered. 
Rye is very hardy and will sprout even 
though there is frost nearly every night. At 
a cost of about 5 cents for a pound of seed a 
garden of 10 by 50 feet can thus be treated 
to an application of green manure. The 
green rye plants soon decay when turned 
under and answer the same purpose as a light 
dressing of manure. 

Green manure, however, should not be relied 
upon to do the work of stable manure, as it 
does not provide phosphorus or potassium. 

Lime 

Land which has long been unused, or 
land in lawns, is apt to be sour. To 
remedy this condition apply 
evenly 1 pound of air-slaked 
lime or 2 pounds of ground lime- 
stone to every 30 square feet. 
The lime should be applied and 
raked in to a depth of 2 inches 
when the seed bed is being pre- 
pared in the spring. Instead of 
lime 2 pounds of unleached 




Fig. 3 — Tools most commonly needed in a small garden. From left to right, between the balls of cord, they are: 
Trowel, weeder, spade, steel toothed rake, hoe, garden fork, watering pot and dibble. 



THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 



wood ashes may be used. Do not apply 
lime at the- same time as manure or mixed 
fertilizers, as it will cause loss of nitrogen. 

As an addition to soil lime is of consider- 
able value. Besides correcting acidity it 
changes the physical structure of the soil. 
One of the elements of lime is calcium, which 
is required for plant growth. 

OUTDOOR HOTBEDS 

For early planting a hotbed may be made, 
located in a sheltered spot with southern 
exposure, where it will receive a generous 
supply of sun. A width of 6 feet is desirable-, 
and the length should be such as will enable 
the use of standard 3 by 6 foot hotbed sash. 
A simple, boxlike frame, 12 inches high in the 
rear and 8 inches high in front, will hold the 
sash and give a better angl»- for the rays of 
the sun. 

Dig a pit 1>^ to 2 feet deep, the size of the 
sash frame to be used. Line the side's of this 
with boards or planks, brick or concrete, and 
make a tile drain, or place stones on the 
bottom of the pit, to carry off surplus water. 
This pit is to be filled with fresh horse manure. 
The manure will require special treatment 
before being placed in the pit. It should be 
thrown into a pile and allowed to heat. 
When it has heated and is steaming fork it 
over into a new pile, throwing the outside 
material into the center. When the new pile 
has become well heated fork the material 
once mo^-e into a new pile. This will require 
from ten days to two weeks and is important 
in that it gets rid of excessive heat. After 
this process fill the pit with the manure, 
packed down firmly and evenly, level with 
the surface of the surrounding earth. On 
top of this manure make a covering of good 
garden loam 3 or 4 inches deep. 

When the sash has been put in place the 
manure will generate heat, in addition to the 
heat that will be derived from the sun. After 
this heat has reached its highest point and 
dropped back to between 80 and 90 degrees F. 
the seed should be planted. Use the best 
seed obtainable. Until the seed germinate 
the hotbed should be kept shaded to hold 
moisture. This can be done by spreading 
over the sash strips of old carpet, heavy cloth 
or newspapers. After germination strong 
light will be needed. The plants must be 
watered each morning on clear daj's, and the 
sash left partially open for ventilation, as it 
is necessary to dry the foliage to prevent 
mildew. 

Proper ventilation is essential to the pro- 
duction of strong, healthy plants. The sash 
should be raised during the warmest part of 
the day on the side opposite the direction 
from which the Avind is blowing. By opening 



it in this way instead of facing the wind, the 
hotbed receives fresh air without receiving 
direct draft. On cold days raise the sash 
slightly three or four times a day for a few 
minutes only. In severe weather cover the 
beds with mats, straw or manure to keep in 
as much heat as possible. About two weeks 
before transplanting time the sash should be 
removed during the day to "harden" the 
plants. While in the hotbed the plants 
should^ be thoroughly watered, but the water 
should not reach the manure underneath. 
Early morning is the best time for water- 
ing, so thiat the plants will be dried before 
night. 

An outdoor hotbed of this character should 
be started in the early spring — February or 
March. 

THE COLD FRAME 

A cold frame is useful for hardening plants 
which have been started in the hotbed. It 
is built like a hotbed, but without the pit or 
manure. It is built on the surface of the 
ground. Good, rich soil should be used and 
the soil kept slightly moist. In mild climates 
the cold frame may be used instead of a hot- 
bed for starting plants. It is also used in the 
fall and early winter for growing lettuce, 
radishes, carrots, parsley, etc. 

TOOLS 

Not many implements are required for 
home gardening. The essentials are a spade 
or a garden fork, a hoe, a rake with steel 
teeth, a trowel, a dibble or pointed stick, and 
a line such as is used by masons, or a piece of 
common string or cord, to stretch between 
two stakes for marking off rows. In the case 
of hard packed earth a pick is useful for dig- 
ging. For watering, a rubber hose is needed 
where pipe connections are available. Lack- 
ing this equipment a watering pot should be 
provided. A hand cultivator or wheel hoe is 
useful, especially in a large garden, and saves 
much time and labor in turning small furrows. 
With simple attachments it is used for 
stirring the soil and the removal of weeds. 

PREPARATION OF SOIL 

After the frost goes out test the ground by 
squeezing a handful of it. If it crumbles the 
soil is ready for spading. If it packs into a 
mud ball, the ground is still too wet and 
should not be worked. 

Spade deeply, 8 to 15 inches, unless this 
latter depth turns up poor soil and buries the 
richer soil of the top. Pulverize the dirt 
deeply with hoe, spade and rake, breaking all 
clods on the surface. If a lawn roller is 
available it is useful for crushing clods. All 
vegetable growth on the surface, such as grass 



8 



WAR GARDENING 



or weeds, should be turned under, to rot and 
enrich the soil. This is especially important 
with ground that has had a growth of turf. 




Fig. 4 — Wheel hoe and hand cultivator, to be had with 
attachments such as plow, cultivator teeth, shovels 
and rake. A simple form may be made at home. 

SELECTION OF CROPS 

The home garden campaign for 1919 should 
be planned with a view to the production of 
the largest possible amount of food with the 
smallest possible outlay of seed and fertilizer. 
Authorities agree that the seed shortage is the 
worst the country has ever seen. The supply 
of fertilizers and natural manures is far below 
the normal. The demand for these materials 
is exceedingly great and war-time efficiency 
makes it vital that war-time conser\'ation be 
practised in the use of them. To this end 
gardens should be devoted as far as possible 
to those crops which are most useful for food 
and in which the chances of failure are least 
to be feared. 

In the selection of vegetables for the home 
garden preference should be given to the staple 
crops such as potatoes, beans, tomatoes, corn, 
onions, and cabbage. Crops of next im- 
portance, such as peas, carrots, parsnips, 
beets, squash, greens, turnips, cauliflower, 
radishes and celery, should be grown if space 
in the garden permits. 




Fig. 5 — Simple seed test, using plates and moist blotting 
paper or cloth. This is extremely useful. 

Cauliflower, muskmelons, w'atermelons, 
onions from seed, asparagus and cucumbers 
are some of the plants that are most difficult 
to raise and these are not recommended to 
the amateur gardener. 



Soils vary so much that serious attention 
should be given to the crops suited to the 
individual garden. This is a local question. 
Consult your local war garden committee's 
experts as to the best crops for your particular 
soil. Expert advice will prevent mistakes. 

In many communities, last year wdtnessed 
an over-production of some vegetables that 
had to be used during the growing season. 
Many gardeners had larger crops of these 
than they could possibly use. Much waste 
resulted. To prevent this loss in seed, fer- 
tilizer, garden space, labor and foodstuflfs 
every gardener should give especial atten- 
tion to the selectioa of crops. Plant spar- 
ingly of those things which must be used as 
they mature and plant liberally of those things 
which may be saved for winter use by can- 
ning, drying or storing. 




Fig. 6 — Use an envelope for sowing seed. The picture 
shows seed already sown in some of the rows. 



PROCURE SEED EARLY 

Seed shortage was a handicap to many 
gardeners last year. In 1919 the pfanting of 
gardens will be increased and the demand 
for seed even greater than in 1918. It is 
important, therefore, that the home gardener 
should procure his supply of seed early — 
well in advance of planting time. Be sure to 
patronize a reliable dealer, as quality is vital. 

Use Seed Sparingly 

Home gardeners often plant seed thickly 
to make sure of a good stand. This is a 
wasteful method, excepting with such vege- 
tables as will produce young plants which 
may be used as greens. The better way is 
to plant according to the directions given in 
the planting table. 

The pronounced seed shortage this year 
makes it imperative that no seed be wasted. 

Testing Seed 

A simple test will give useful advance 
information of the germinating value of 
seed. This test is useful as enabling the 
gardener to determine whether or not 
seed have been properly cured and are 
otherwise in good condition. Seed which 
are too old or have been kept under un- 
favorable conditions are unsatisfactory. 



THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 



HOW MUCH SEED TO BUY 

The following amounts of seed -vvill plant in each case a garden row 100 feet long. Measure 
your rows and buy accordingly. Also compare your figures with planting table on page 23. 



String beans 3 2 to 1 pint 

Lima beans 3-^ to 1 pint 

Cabbage ]4 ounce 

Carrot 1 ounce 

Cauliflower 1 packet 

Celery % ounce 

All squash } 2 ounce 

Beets 2 ounces 

Sweet corn } ^ pint 

Lettuce Jo ounce 

Muskmelon }2 ounce 

Cucumber }/i ounce 



Eggplant K ounce 

Kale, or Swiss chard }4 ounce 

Parsley 1^ ounce 

Parsnip 1^ ounce 

Vegetable oyster (salsify) ^i. ounce 

Onion sets (bulbs) ; 1 quart 

Onion seed 1 ounce 

Peas 1 to 2 pints 

Radish 1 ounce 

Spinachv 1 ounce 

Tomatoe^\ Ys ounce 

Turnip. . . y^ ounce 



1 or 2 pecks of early potatoes and \2 to 1 bushel of late potatoes are enough to plant to 
supply four persons. 




Fig. 7 — A paper band folded into the form of a berry 
box, without bottom, is a good holder for indoor seed 
planting. The picture shows Jiow these are placed 
side by side in a fiat box. 

To test plant 25 to 50 seed of each variety 
in an indoor seed box, or place between moist 
blotters or cloth between two plates. (Fig. 5.) 
Germination should take place within 2 to 8 
days and the number of seedlings which grow 
will show the percentage of germination. 

The seedlings should be kept for planting 
to prevent waste. 

The standard adopted by the United 
States Department of Agriculture for seed 
germination is as follows: 

Sholxd produce 60 to 80 per cent: 

Celery, Parsley, Salsify, Eggplant, Parsnip. 

Should produce 80 to 85 per cent: 

Asparagus. Okra, Spinach, Carrot, Onion, CauH« 
flower, Pepper. 

Should produce 85 to 90 per cent: 

Corn (sweet), Lettuce, Squash, Cress, Melon, 
Tomato, Cucumber, Pumpkin. 

Should produce 90 to 95 per cent: 
Bean, Mustard, Turnip, Cabbage, Pea, Radish. 

INDOOR PLANTING 

Earlier crops can be secured by planting 
certain seed indoors and setting the young 
plants out in the open garden after the 
weather becomes warm. This may be done 
with tomatoes, cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower, 
peppers, and eggplant. 

Any wooden box, shallow and wide, 
will make an indoor garden. Put 1 inch 
of gravel or cinders in the bottom for drain- 
age, and fill to the top with good soil. Rows 
of plants may be two inches apart. 



Plant 8 or 10 seed to the inch, keep the 
soil damp, and set the box in a window. 
When the plants are an inch high trans- 
plant them to other seed boxes, spacing 
plants 2 inches apart. This insures sturdy 
plants with good root systems. 

Transplanting 

Before transplanting the plants to the 
garden set the box outdoors, in mild weather, 
to harden the plants. Set out each plant 
with a ball of the box dirt sticking to the 
roots. Thorough water- 
ing several hours be- 
fore transplanting 
causes the earth to 
stick as required. 

If the root system 
is broken in the re- 
moval trim away some 
of the larger leaves 
of the plants. In moist 
ground open a hole 
with trowel or dibble. 
Make the hole larger 
than is needed to 
hold the roots and 
a little deeper than 
the roots grew. Place 
roots in hole, and, 




Fig. 8 — Transplanting to- 
mato plant from pot to 
garden. 



with the hands, pack 

the soil firmly around 

the plant. In dry soil 

pour a pint of water into each hole before 

inserting plant. Rake some dry earth about 

the surface surrounding each plant to hold 

the moisture. 

Transplanted plants cannot stand strong 
sunshine at first and cloudy days or late 
afternoon are preferable for transplanting. 
In bright weather place newspapers over 
them for a day or two, making tents of the 
papers, in the shape of an inverted V. 

A homemade paper pot, a round, bottom- 
less paper band or a berry box, filled with soil 



10 



WAR GARDENING 



should be used to produce plants for a hill 
of cucumbers, squash, melons or other 
"vining" plants which are started indoors, 
as these do not stand transplanting if the 
roots are disturbed. The pot or other 
holder may be set into the ground without 
disturbing the roots. Tomatoes, eggplants 
and beans may also be started in this way. 




Fig. 9 — Seed box for starting plants indoors. 

WHEN TO PLANT 

When heavy frosts are over, plant early 
peas, onion sets and seed, early potatoes, 
kale, lettuce and spinach. All of these will 
stand light freezing except potato plants, 
which should be covered with dirt when 
frost threatens. 

When frosts are about over plant radishes, 
parsnips, carrots, beets, late peas and early 
sweet corn, and set out cabbage and cauli- 
flower plants. (An old and useful rule is 
to "plant corn when the oak leaves are the 
size of a squirrel's ear"). 

When all frosts are over and apple trees 
are in bud, plant string beans and late 
sweet corn, and set out a few early tomato 
plants from the indoor boxes. 

When apple trees have fin- 
ished blossoming plant cucum- -v^-~^''^"i. 
bers, melons, squashes, lima -^,^''^^^ 
beans and set out the rest of " ^^-^^s 
the indoor plants. 

SEED BEDS 

Plants for second crops 
may be raised in an outdoor 
seed bed occupying small space. 
These plants may be grown 
while the space allotted to 
them in the garden plan is 
still in use for earlier crops. 
The rows of seed are not 
spaced so closely as in boxes used inside 
the house. If the plants crowd each 
other too much some of them may be re- 
moved and transplanted to another part of 
the garden. The seed bed plan is useful foi 
such crops as cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, 
late cabbage and the like. 

FALL PLANTING 

It is well to plant a fall garden of some 
crops, for in spite of the risk of injury by 
earh- frost the chances are in favor of satis- 



factory results. There can be no absolute 
rule as to the time of planting. The prob- 
able time of the first frost in each locality 
must be taken as a general guide. For 
planting in August, and possibly even in 
early September, the following vegetables 
may be grown: 

When first frost may be expected between 
September 15 and September 25: 

Lettuce, Spinach, Turnips, Parsley, Multiplier 
Onions and Turnips. (Kale and Radishes may be 
risked.) 

When first frost may be expected between 
September 20 and October 5: 

Kale, Lettuce, Parsley, Multiplier Onions, Radishes, 
Spinach and Turnips. Beets and Chard for greens. 

When first frost may be expected between 

October 5 and October 15: 

Beets for canning. Carrots, Kale, Multiplier Onions, 
Spinach, Chard, Endive, Lettuce, Radishes and 
Turnips. 

When first frost may be expected between 

October 15 and October 25: 

Any of the vegetables mentioned in the preceding 
lists. (String beans may be risked.) 



LAYING OFF ROWS 

Straight rows add to the garden's beauty 
and make cultivation easier. To make the 
rows straight stretch a stout string between 
stakes and follow it with the point of a hoe, 
with a wheel hoe, or with the end of the 
handle of the rake or hoe, to open up the row. 
The plan is suggested in Fig. 10. 







Fig. 10 — Straight rows add to the beauty of the garden and are easier to 
cultivate. The simplest way to lay them off is to stretch a line between 
two stakes and mark row with a hoe, hoe handle or stick. 



SUCCESSION OF CROPS 

Nature generously provides for more than 
one crop on the same soil. Vegetables which 
reach maturity earlj^ in the season should be 
followed by later crops of the same vegetable 
or by rotation of other kinds. Onions to be 
used green may be grown in rows which are 
to be occupied by late tomato plants, as a few 
of the onions may be removed to plant the 
tomatoes. Radishes mature early and as 
they are harA-ested the space may be used for 
cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts 



THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 11 



and other plants. Many combinations of 
this kind may be made to good advantage. 



once a week than to sprinkle every day. 
Late afternoon is the best time to sprinkle. 




„JE '- 1 INCH 




Fig. 11 — Beans planted at proper depth. 



Fig. 12 — Lima beans, planted properly, with eyes down. 



FOR CONTINUOUS CROPS 

With some of the important vegetables a 
series of plantings is desirable. Of string 
beans, lettuce, radishes, spinach, sweet corn, 
peas, beets and carrots there should be several 
successive plantings, two or 
three weeks apart, to provide 
a fresh and continuous supply 
all season. 

DEPTH OF PLANTING 

Do not plant too deeply. 
The old rule is to plant to a 
depth of 5 times the thickness 
of the seed. This, however, 
is not an absolute rule and 
is not safe in all cases. 
Consult planting table on 
page 23 for depth. 

HOEING 

When the green rows ap- 
pear it is time to start 
hoeing or cultivating. Never 
hoe or cultivate deeply — an 
inch or two is deep enough — 
but stir the ground frequent- 
ly, and always after rain or 
watering, as soon as it is dry 
enough. The hoeing must 
not be done after rain or 
watering when the ground is 
still so wet as to cause the 
muddy earth to pack like 
cement, as this causes the 
earth to cake and dry out 
altogether too rapidly, which is undesirable. 

Frequent hoeing causes the formation of a 
dust layer which prevents the soil underneath 
from drying out. The garden should always 
be kept free from weeds, as these, if permitted 
to grow, consume plant food and moisture 
needed by the plants. 

WATERING 

A plentiful supply of moisture is essential. 
If there is not sufficient rainfall the moisture 
should be provided by watering the garden. 
In doing this it is better to soak the ground 




r-0 



To moisten the surface is not enough. 
There mast be a thorough wetting. If pipe 
connections are available a garden hose is 
the best means of watering. One of the 
most satisfactory methods is to open small 
furrows between rows and 
allow water to run into these 
trenches, raking the earth 
back into place several hours 
later and making a mulch, 
after the water has thor- 
oughly soaked in. The 
sprinkling pot will serve if 
hose is not available, but it 
is more laborious. Overhead 
sprinklers are very satis- 
factory. They consist of 
pipes mounted on supports 
extending the length of the 
area to be watered. Holes 
are drilled at intervals of 3 
to 4 feet and small nozzles 
are inserted which yield a 
spray-like misty rain when 
the water is turned on. By 
turning the pipes and also 
changing the position of them 
it is possible to water an area 
of any size. 

In home gardens proper 
drainage is often disregarded. 
Drainage improves the soil 
by allowing air to enter; by 
raising the temperature of 
the soil; by rendering the 
tatoes are planted 2 inches nearer soil more porous and granu- 



-2 



-3 



-4 



-5 



LilN, 



Fir 1< — \ ";inall potato planted 
whole The depth of pi intniR here 
shown is apiiroAiniatuly 4^ inches to 
the center of the potato. This is 'the 
depth for late potatoes. Early po- 



surface of ground 



lar; by enabling the roots of 
plants to grow deeply into the soil and by 
allowing earlier cultivation in the spring. 

Blind ditches, partly filled with stones or 
other material covered with soil, or open 
ditches, will be found satisfactory for the 
home garden. They should be along the 
lowest level of the garden, and have suitable 
outlet. Lacking an outlet, lay tile 12 inches 
below surface of garden, slanting toward a 
hole 10 feet deep and 5 feet across, in center 
of garden. Fill this, two thirds to top, with 
stones, covering stones with clay and covering 
the clay with loam. 



12 



WAR GARDENING 



DIRECTIONS FOR VEGETABLE GROWING 

POTATOES 

As one of the staple needs of the household Potatoes are entitled to special attention in 
Home Gardening and Community Gardening. In selecting for seed it is desirable to choose 
medium to large, smooth, shallow-eyed potatoes. The best seed will produce the best crop. 
Potatoes grow best in sandy loam or in a gravel loam. Heavy, sticky clay or loose sand is not 
desirable soil. Potatoes should not be grown in the same place in the garden in which they 
were grown the previous year. A rotation of three or four years is desirable. 

Preparation of the soil should be done with care. The ground should be worked with 
plow, spade and hoe, to a depth of 8 or 10 inches, and should be thoroughly broken up or 
pulverized, then thoroughly worked with a steel-toothed rake. This preparation is of great 
importance and should not be slighted. Attention to details js necessary to success. 



Treat Seed for Scab 

One of the most common diseases affecting 
seed potatoes is scab. This attacks the skin 
of the potato, causing it to thicken, and giving 
it a scabby appearance. It is carried through 
the winter, in soil, in manure and on the po- 




Fig. 14 — Properly cut seed potatoes. Each piece has two good eyes 
and is about the size of a hen's egg. 



tatoes themselves. To control this affection 
it is important that potatoes should be ro- 
tated with other crops as to location, and the 
same soil not used for potatoes except at 
intervals of three or four years. A simple 
remedy, easily applied, is to soak the seed 
potatoes before planting, in a solution of 
Formalin and water. This solution is made 
of 1 ounce of Formalin (40 per cent formalde- 
hyde), mixed in 2 gallons of water. In this 
mixture soak the uncut potatoes for two 
hours, and spread them out to dry. The 
solution can be used on as many lots of 
potatoes as desired. 

Seed potatoes should be spread out in a 
room in which they will be exposed to strong 
light for two weeks before cutting, to start 
sprouts and detect poor seed. If large po- 
tatoes are used cut them into pieces weighing 
from 1 to 2 ounces, each piece having at least 
two eyes. If potatoes are scarce and expen- 
sive the pieces may be cut to a single eye. 
Do not cut the seed until it is to be planted. 

Planting 

For planting, prepare trenches or furrows 
from 3 to 5 inches deep and from 24 to 36 
inches apart. Plant seed pieces 3 inches 
deep for early potatoes and 5 inches for late 



varieties. The seed pieces should be 14 to 
18 inches apart in rows, the smaller the pieces 
the closer the planting. Fill the trench with 
dirt, firming it in order that the moisture may 
be brought in contact with the seed pieces 
to assist in the process of germination. 
Usually potatoes should not be planted as 
late as the first week in July very 
far north of the Mason and Dixon 
line except in sections where it is 
known that they will mature 
before freezing weather arrives. 

Cultivation 

As soon as the potato plants 
come up begin cultivating them. 
The cultivation should begin be- 
fore they come up if a crust forms. 
Cultivate or hoe every week during the 
season, to keep the surface in good condition. 
When the plants are young work the soil up 
around them to support the plants. 

Potatoes are subject to diseases and in- 
sects which are scheduled on page 21. Take 
precautions to keep these from getting a 
start. Follow instructions as to spraying 




Fig. 15 — On the left is shown tuber sprouted in warm, 
dark storage place. Such spouts sap vitality and 
decrease yield. On the right is green sprouted tuber. 
By this latter method the tuber retains its vitality 
and a good yield is insured. 

and keep at it during the season. It is 
better to spray before trouble appears than 
to take chances. 

Dig early potatoes when they are of the 
size desired. Late potatoes, for storing, 
should not be dug until the leaves and stems 
are dead, or until the skin is so firm that it 
Hiay not easily be rubbed off. 



THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 13 



SWEET POTATOES 

Sweet potatoes are grown mostly in the 
Southern States or where there is warm, 
sandy soil, and are not especially recom- 
mended for the home garden. If space 
permits a few plants may be grown. 

If you wish to grow your own plants 
start a hotbed about six weeks before apple- 
blossom time. Place 5 or 6 inches of sand 
over the manure in the hotbed and lax- 
down small, healthy sweet pota- 
toes, close together but not touch- 
ing. Cover them with one or two 
inches of sand; water occasionally 
to keep slightly moist. Sprouts 
will soon begin to grow and 
immediately send out roots into 
the sand. When these sprouts 
are four or more inches long they 
may be pulled from the potatoes 
and are rooted and ready to be 
planted. They need not be pulled, 
however, until time to plant them 
in the garden, when all danger of 
frost is past. They should be set 
14 inches apart in rows 36 to 60 
inches apart. If only a few plants 
are wanted they should be jjur- 
chased from a seedsman, as the 
trouble involved in growing them 
in small quantities is too great to 
make it worth while. 

On land which is not thorougly 
drained the plants should be set 
on ridges and these should be 
made broad, as narrow ridges 
will dry out too rapidly. The 
ridges should be maintained during 
the entire growing season. 

Sweet potatoes should be dug 
when the soil is dry and the 
weather bright, before there is 
danger of hard frosts. A spading 
fork may be used in digging them. 
Guard against bruising or injuring 
them in digging and handling. 
Let the roots lie out to dry for two 
or three hours after digging. 




Asparagus 

Use strong plants two years old, 
which may be purchased from seedsmen. Set 
them 18 inches apart, in rows 3 feet apart. 
The rows should be 8 to 10 inches deep, with 
width of 6 to 8 inches at bottom. After 
spreading out roots cover crowns with 2 
inches of soil. With the growth of the 
shoots gradually fill in with earth until 
level with surface. Careful cultivation is 
required during the season. A small bed 
heavily manured w'ill furnish plants for 
2 or 3 persons. 

Beans 

Beans form a staple crop which may be 
raised in almost every climate. They need a 
rich soil which holds moisture, but is well 
drained. Frequent shallow cultivation must 
be given and they must be kept growing with- 



out a check until harvested. Never cultivate 
while moisture is on vines. 

Beans are susceptible to cold and for sure 
results they should not be planted until 
danger of frost is past. So little trouble is in- 
volved in bean planting, however, that it is a 
good plan to take a chance on making the first 
I)Ianting as soon as the ground is reasonably 
warm. If the first planting should be killed 
])}■ frost there is a good chance that the second 
will come up and that it will 
mature early. In this way a crop 
will be assured early enough 
to make it worth while to take the 
small risk involved in the possible 
loss of the early planting. 

Dry shell beans are planted and 
treated the same as string beans 
are planted and treated. The 
beans are allowed to mature in the 
pods. They should be thoroughly 
dried, shelled and stored as directed 
for storage of seed on page 32. 

String and lima beans are grown 
alike. There are two sorts of each 
— low bush vines and bean vines 
that climb poles. Pole beans are 
best for small gardens. 

Plant beans and bush limas 1 
inch deep, 4 to 6 inches apart in 
rows. 

Make successive plantings every 
ten days until hot weather. In 
late summer make successive 
plantings of string beans until 
eight weeks before the usual time 
of first frost. 

Plant pole beans and pole 
limas in hills 1 inch deep, 4 seeds 
to hill, hills 3 feet apart. Thin to 
2 jjlants to the hill. Before plant- 
ing fix firmly in each hill a pole 5 
to 6 feet long. If desired have 
two rows of hills and slant the 
poles so that each set of 4 may 
i)e tied together at the top like an 
Indian teepee. This prevents the 
poles from falling, but reduces the 
yield of the vines. 

Help the vines to start twining 
around the poles from right to left. 
Note: Plant lima beans with the "eyes" 
of the seed downward. 

Beets 

Sow seed rather thickly in row, using 1 oz. 
to 50 feet, but thin the young plants by 
pulling until the survivors are 4 inches apart. 
The pulled plants make fine greens for cook- 
ing or canning. 

Brussels Sprouts 

Grown like cabbage. 

Cabbage 

Set plants from indoor seed boxes or 
pots 15 inches apart in rows, the rows be- 
ing 30 inches apart. Between these rows 



16 — Lima bean vine 
on pole. 



14 



WAR GARDENING 



early lettuce, radishes, and other little 
crops may be planted. Early cabbage should 
be gathered as soon as it has formed solid 
heads. Late cabbage may be stored in 
trenches and covered with straw and earth. 




t—0 



Fig. 17 — Corn, planted properly, at depth of 2 inches. 

Carrots 

Sow seed >^ inch deep, using }{ ounce 
to 25 feet of row. Thin to 2 or 3 inches 
apart when roots crowd each other. 

Cauliflower 

Grown the same as cabbages, except when 
the heads form, the loose outer leaves should 
be tied together over the heads to keep out 
the light and bleach them. 

Celery 

Sow seed in seed boxes and set plants in 
garden in June or July, 6 inches apart, 
trenches 6 inches deep and 3 feet apart. 
Make the trenches 6 to 8 inches wide at the 
bottom so that rains will not wash the earth 
over the young plants. As the plants grow, 
cultivate the ground into the trenches. 
When plants are large heap earth around 
stalks to whiten them. 

Celeriac 

This is a large rooted form of celery. It 
is grown like celery, except that the plants 
do not need bleaching. The large root is 
cooked for use. The plants should be pro- 
tected in freezing weather by straw' or 
mulch (half-rotted manure and straw), and 
dug when needed. 

Corn, Sweet 

Plant 5 or 6 seed 1 inch deep in hills 3 
feet apart. When plants are 4 inches high 
•pull out all but 2 or 3 plants in each hill. 
Make new plantings every 2 weeks until 
July or August so as to have corn for use 
during the entire season. 

Cucumbers 

Plant 8 to 10 seed 1 inch deep in hills 4 
feet apart. Later thin to 2 plants per hill. 
Do not plant until soil is warm and frosts 
are over. Hoe or cultivate only until plants 
start to vine, then pull weeds by hand. 

Eggplant 

Little plants from seed boxes are set 2 
feet apart in rows 3 feet apart. 



Endive 

In midsummer sow seed ^ inch deep 
and later thin plants to 8 inches apart. To 
blanch hearts raise leaves and tie together 
over heart. 

Kale 

Sow seed }4 inch deep in rows 18 to 24 
inches apart. Thin the plants until they 
are from 6 to 8 Inches apart in the rows. 



Sow seed J4 
plants to 4 or 6 inches 



Kohlrabi 

inch deep and 



later thin 



Lettuce 



Sow seed )4 inch deep in rojvs 1 foot apart 
and later thin out until plants are 5 to 6 
inches apart. There should be successive 
plantings, but lettuce is not grown in ex- 
tremely hot weather. Sow seed the last of 
August and in September to be transplanted 
to the cold frame in October. 

Mint 

Roots may be procured from a seedsman 
or neighbor. Plant one or two clumps of 
these roots in a corner of garden in the spring. 

Muskmelon 

Grown like cucumbers except hills must 
be 6 feet apart. 

Muskmelons are difficult to raise and 
are not recommended to gardeners who 
are not exj)erienced in their culture. 




Fig. 18 — Corn, planted properly in hill, at a depth of 
2 inches and with corner kernels 3 inches apart. 



Okra 

Sow seeds when corn and beans are being 
planted. Sow 1 inch deep a tew inches apart 
in rows 3 to 5 feet apart. Thin plants to 18 
or 24 inches apart. Until plants are almost 
grown cultivate frequently and not very 
deeply. 

Pick young pods every day to keep plant 
bearing. 

Onions 

Onions will grow from seed or from bulbs, 
called sets. It is better to use sets in home 
gardens. For early green onions plant sets 



THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 15 



3 inches apart in rows 1 foot or more apart. 
To grow from seed, plant the seed rather 
thickly ^ of an inch deep in rows and thin 
them later until plants are 2 to 3 inches 
apart. If sets for planting next spring are 
desired, do not thin out any plants, but let 
them crowd so they will remain small. Seed 
may be planted in seed box or seed bed and 
when transplanted placed 3 inches apart. 

Parsley 

Sow seed thinly }4, inch deep, later thin- 
ning plants when they crowd each other. 

Parsnips 

Sow seed thinly ^ of an inch deep in 
rows 18 to 24 inches apart and later thin 
plants to 3 inches apart. • 

Peas 

An Important factor in the successful raising 
of garden peas is that the smooth-seeded type 
are not easily damaged by light frost. Because 
of this they may be planted early in the spring 
— practically as soon as weather conditions 
permit preparation of the ground. They may 
be grown in almost any ordinary soil. The 
best soil is sandy loam, well drained, and rich 
with rotted manure. To give continuous 
supply throughout the growing season make 
successive plantings from one to two weeks 
apart. For the earliest crops select the smooth- 
seeded varieties of quick maturity. These 
varieties require no supports. For later crops 
select the large, wrinkled varieties. 



H> 




-s 



-3 



Fig. 19 — Peas, planted properly, at depth of 4 inches. 

As soon as plants break through the ground, 
cultivate. Continue to do this three or four 
times a week until the vines lop over. 

Peas should be planted in trenches 4 inches 
deep, the seed being covered with 2 to 3 inches 
of soil. From 1 to 2 pints of seed will plant 



100 feet of row. As the plants grow, grad- 
ually fill in the trench around them. Let 
the vines of the tall varieties grow up on 
brush or poultry wire. The rows of peas 
should be 3 to 4 feet apart, but if the space 
is small it is desir- 
able to plant double 
rows 1 foot apart, 
placing the brush 
between these rows. 

Peppers 

Set ^oung plants 
from seed box 18 
inches apart in row. 
Pepper plants are 
tender and should 
not be set out until 
the ground is warm. 

Potatoes 

For special in- 
structions on Irish 
and Sweet Potatoes 
see pages 12 and 13. 

Pumpkin 

Plant in hills 8 
to 10 feet apart, 
using 8 to 10 seed 
to a hill. Plant 
seed 1 inch deep. 
Later thin to 2 or 3 
plants to a hill. 







Fig. 20 — A tomato plant 
should be tied with a strip 
of cloth, at a height of ten 
inches, again at about 18 
inches and again at about 
26 inches. The plant here 
pictured is a good one from 
which to save seed. 



Radishes 

Planted and grown the same as carrots. 

Rhubarb 

Procure roots from a neighbor or dealer 
as seed planting is not advised. Set them 
3 to 4 feet apart, in rows or next to fence. 
Use manure freely. 

Salsify or Oyster Plant 

Also called vegetable oyster. Grown like 
carrots. Plants must be thinned to 3 inches 
apart. 

Spinacli 

Sow seed thickly 1 inch deep in rows 
12 to 18 inches apart, for both early spring 
and fall crops. 

Squash 

Grown the same as cucumbers or musk- 
melon, except that the hills of Hubbard 
squash should be 7 to 9 feet apart. 

Swiss Chard 

Sow seed ^ inch deep. Thin out when 
necessary. 

Tomatoes 

Tomatoes form one of the favorite crops of 
the home garden, as they will grow in all tj'pes 
of soil. Sandy loam, with plenty of humus, 
is ideal for growing tomatoes. 



16 



WAR GARDENING 



If plants are grown in seed flats, hotbeds 
or cold frames, follow the directions for 
transplanting given on pages 9 and 10. 
Plants suitable for setting out should be 
4-6 inches high, having a thick stem and 
dark green leaves. Begin cultivation as 
soon as the plants are set. Cultivate deeply 
and close to plants at first but later cultiva- 
tion should be more shallow to prevent 
injury to roots. Cultivate frequently to keep 
the soil loose over the surface, so preventing 
evaporation. Always cultivate after a rain. 

When preparing seed flats, hotbeds, or 
cold frames for tomato seed, use soil which 
has never grown tomatoes. This insures 
plants free from disease. It is not advisable 
to plant tomatoes on land which has been 
planted the previous year with white potatoes, 
melons or tomatoes. To plant on such soil 
increases the danger from disease and pests. 

It is always advisable to train the plants to 
stakes or other supports. They may be 
trained on wires or on poultry wire fastened 
on posts set about fifteen feet apart in rows. 
Barrel hoops a foot apart fastened to stakes 
eighteen inches apart are some times used. 
To tie plant to support, loop the string 
around the support and tie it under a leaf 
stem. Remove all side branches at the axil 
of the leaves as soon as they appear. Do 
not remove flower clusters. When the plant 
has reached a height of 5 feet cut off' the top. 



When three or four clusters of fruit have 
formed and some of the fruit is as large as a 
silver dollar prune the leaves at the base one 
half. This hastens ripening. 

Once a month apply a little commercial 
fertilizer or compost around each plant. 
Avoid the use of fresh or unrotted manure 
as this produces too much leaf growth, the 
fruit does not set and disease is encouraged. 

Turnips 

For early spring, plant }i ounce of seed 
to 50 feet of row, sowing them }4 inch deep, 
in rows 1 foot or more apart. For fall crop 
}4 ounce of seed to 50 feet of row, % inch 
deep, or make the rows 8 to 10 inches wide 
and scatter seeds thinly in broad rows. 

Vegetable Marrow 

Plant 6 or 8 seed to a hill, one inch deep, 
in hills 8 to 9 feet apart. Thin to 2 plants 
to hill. Give the same care as for pump- 
kins. The young and tender vegetable 
marrow may be baked whole like sweet 
potatoes or may be sliced and fried like 
eggplant, or boiled like summer squash. 

Watermelon 

Plant 1 inch deep, 8 or 10 seed to each 
hill, the hills 10 feet apart. Later thin to 
2 plants to each hill. 

Watermelons require much room and are 
not recommended for small gardens. 



DISEASE AND INSECT PREVENTION 



Every garden is subject to attack from 
insects and diseases. Your garden may not 
be attacked, but it is wise to take advance 
precautions. Spraying at occasional in- 
tervals from the time the plants have made 
their start until they are harvested is worth 
while. A hand sprayer should be used to 
distribute the necessary solutions on the 
plants. Such sprayers may be bought in 
various types. Some of them may be bought 
for a dollar or less and others range up to 
the neighborhood of $10 for the small, 
compressed air type. The simplest and 
cheapest type is the small atomizer sprayer 
with hand pump and with glass receptacle 




for holding mixture. (Figure 21.) Another 
type, costing a little more, is the bucket pump. 
(Figure 21.) If you have no spray pump a 





Fig. 21 — Some of the best types of sprayer. At the left is a hand sprayer, which is one of the most satisfactory for 
the small garden. The glass receptacle is better than metal. This sprayer can be bought for from 50 cents to 
$2.00. In the center is a bucket sprayer which costs about §5.00. At the right is a compressed air sprayer, which 
is highly efficient and costs from $5.00 to $10.00. One sprayer may be used by several families, or by community 
gardeners, reducing the cost to each user. , 



THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 17 



phate ill about one-half gallon of hot water 
and then dilute with enough cold water to 
make a total of IK gallons; or wrap the 
copper sulphate in a small piece of cheese- 
cloth, fill a quart jar with cold water and sus- 
pend the copper sulphate into the top of the 
water; in a couple of hours it will be dis- 
solved. In another vessel slake the lime 
and dilute it with enough water to make l}i 
gallons. If hydrated lime is used simply 
mix if^ with water. Then pour these two 
solutions together, pouring the solution of 
copper sulphate slowly into the mixture of 
lime and water, stirring vigorously while this 
process is under way. The stirring insures 
proper mixing of the two. 

Bordeaux mixture may be purchased in 
concentrated form from seedsmen, but the 



good substitute is the whisk broom, for 
spattering the spray on plants. After using, 
wash out pump and hose as some sprays will 
corrode metal and others will rot hose. The 
ordinary sprinkling pot may be used to apply 
mixtures, but this is wasteful. 

Buy Spraying Materials Early 

Early purchase of spraying materials is 
important. The supply will be limited and 
the demand large. Make a list of the ma- 
terials you will need, with amounts, and 
place your order immediately. If you have 
equipment from last season place your order 
early for repair parts for pump, hose or 
nozzle, especially extra couplings and hose 
splicers for burst hose. If you delay until 
the spraying season arrives you are likely to 
fail to procure your supply. By 
joining with friends or neighbors 
and buying in quantities you can 
procure materials at lower prices 
than if buying alone. 

For home mixing the poisons 
and chemicals required for sprays 
and other remedies and prevent- 
ives can be bought at a drug or 
seed store. The mixtures ready 
prepared can be bought at a seed 
store. 

Diseases 

The ordinary blights are usually 
overcome by spraying with Bor- 
deaux mixture, made as indicated 
in the next paragraph. There 

are some diseases, however, which pig. 22— Potato blights and their effect. At tlic left are shown leaves 

, 11 nffli<-t(vl with ptHv blicl't indicated bv brown sfwts with concentnc 

cannot be overcome, and when ^^/^\^\^^/,?g"|7t i^'^l^^n ,ate W 

trouble appears that does not water-soaked. These pictures should help in detecting trouble. 




yield to treatment the affected 

plants should be taken up and burned to 

prevent the spread of the infection to others. 

Bordeaux Mixture 

Copper Sulphate, Blue vStoae "or Blue 

Vitriol 3 ounces 

Lump Lime or Hydrated Lime 3 ounces 

Water 2J<i gallons 

To make Bordeaux mixture procure the 
ingredients at a drug or seed store. If lump 
lime is used it must be fresh. Instead of 
lump lime some authorities prefer fresh hy- 
drated lime as being just as good and at the 
same time nmch simpler to use, needing 
only to be stirred into the water. Hydrated 
lime is lime to which enough water to dry- 
slake it has been added by the manufac- 
turer. It is a powder and does not require 
slaking. 

For making or holding Bordeaux mixture 
use containers of wood, glass or earthenware. 
In one container dissolve the copper sul- 



homemade mixture is better and cheaper. 
Do not make more at one time than will be 
needed within a short time. The mixture 
is better and more effective if made fresh for 
each spraying. 

Sulphur 

For the control of mildew, pulverized sul- 
phur or flowers of sulphur, procured at a 
drug or seed store, is dusted full strength on 
the diseased plants. A tin can with small 
holes punched in the bottom makes a good 
sifter for this purpose, or a cheap flour sifter 
may be used. The holes in a flour sifter are 
the proper size for this purpose. 

THE SUCKING INSECTS 

For the destruction of insects which suck 
the sap of plants, such as the true bugs and 
the plant lice, or aphids, it is necessary to 



18 



WAR GARDENING 



use a mixture which kills by contact or sub- 
stances which smother, Aphids, or plant lice, 
usually collect on the underside of leaves, 
causing them to crumple. This crumpling 
causes the edges of the leaves to turn down, 
protecting the aphids. Badly crumpled 
leaves should be picked and burned. In 
spraying be sure to apply the spray to the 
underside of the ' leaves. Otherwise the 
edges will serve as protection and prevent 
the spray from reaching the entire plant 
effectively. 

Nicotine Sulphate Solution 

To destroy the sucking insects use nico- 
tine sulphate solution, made as follows: 

Nicotine sulphate Y^ ounce 

Laundry or other soap 3^ ounce 

Water ". 2 gallons 

Dissolve the soap and then add this and 
the nicotine sulphate to the water. 




Fig. 23 — Bean antliracnose is indicated by dark sunken 
scab-like spots on pods. There arealso spots on leaves. 



Bordeaux and Nicotine Sulphate 
Combination 

A combination spray for plant diseases and 
sucking insects is made thus: 

Bordeaux mixture 2 gallons 

Nicotine sulpliate J-^ ounce 

Laundry or other soap 3^ ounce 

THE EATING INSECTS 

The eating insects, or those which eat fruit 
or foliage, may usually be killed by using a 
spray of poisonous solution or by dusting 



poison powders on the plants attacked. 
Arsenate of lead, procured at a drug or seed 
store, is a favorite poison for this purpose, and 
may be used in spray or powder, but it must 
be handled with care as it is poisonous to 
human beings. It should never be applied 
to vegetables that are soon to be used, nor on 
cabbage or cauliflower after the heads have 
begun to form. As an added precaution wash 
carefully all vegetables before using, whether 
they have been sprayed or not. 

Arsenate of Lead Solution 

Arsenate of lead spraying solution is made 
by mixing 1 ounce of arsenate of lead powder 
(or 2 ounces of paste) with 6 quarts of water. 
If the arsenate of lead is used in paste form 
instead of powder mix 2 ounces with 6 quarts 
of water. The powder is more easily weighed 
and handled. Keep the mixture well stirred 
while spraying, to insure even distribution. 

To apply arsenate of lead in dry form mix 
1 •ounce of the powder with 3 pounds of air- 
slaked lime, dry road dust or ashes finely 
sifted. Use a sifter for dusting this onto the 
plants, while the plants are wet with dew or 
rain. 

Bordeaux-Arsenate of Lead Combination 

Spraying with a combination of Bordeaux 
mixture and arsenate of lead every two weeks 
is a wise safeguard against both disease and 
eating insects. To make this combination 
spray use Bordeaux mixture instead of water 
when preparing the arsenate of lead. By 
using a combination spray half the labor of 
spraying is saved. 

In spraying cabbage and cauliflower with 
Bordeaux and arsenate of lead before the 
heads form, a little soap mixed with the 
arsenate of lead will make it stick better. 
Shave the soap, add a small quantity of water 
and boil until the soap is dissolved or put it 
in cold water and stir occasionally until dis- 
solved. Cool and stir into the arsenate of 
lead solution. 

Paris green has long been used for pro- 
tection, but arsenate of lead is now used 
much more extensively and is considered 
better. 

Poisoned Bait 

Poisoned bait is useful against cutworms 
and slugs. Small portions of the bait should 
be placed around plants subject to attack by 
them. The pests feed at night and hide under 
chips or other objects during the day. Bait 
should be placed beneath these. Poisoned 
bait may be made at home thus: 

Wheat bran 1 pound 

White arsenic, powdered H ounce 

Cheap sirup 1 or 2 ouncM 

Water to make a thick mash of the mixture. 



THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 19 

The bran and the white arsenic should be on the surface of which a small quantity of 

mixed. Dilute the sirup with a little water kerosene is floating. Insects collected by 

and pour this over the bran and white arsenic. hand should be destroyed immediately. 

Stir well. Add enough water to make a thick For slugs and snails sprinkle any form of 

mash. lime over plants and around where they 

Liquid Poisoned Bait occur. 

Sodium Arsenate 1 ounce ^ r\^i. -r- r t» ^ ^• 

Water 4 quarts SoiTie Other Forms of Protection 

Molasses 1 pint /-^ r c 

.... One form of protection agamst cutworms 

Dissolve the sodium arsenate m boiling jg ^ collar 2 inches wide ma'de of stiff paper, 

water and add the molasses. Flavor by add- pi^cecl around the stem of the plant and with 

mg chopped pieces of vegetable of the kind jtg lower edge inserted in the ground, to 

which IS to be sprayed. Apply with a whisk prevent the pests from reaching both stem 

broom. ^ , „ , and upper part of root. 

Removing Insects by Hand gmall frames covered with mosquito net- 

The larger eating insects may be removed ting or cheesecloth set over young plants will 

by hand or knocked off into a pan of water protect them. 



GUARD AGAINST DISEASES AND INSECTS 



An ounce of prevention is worth a pound 
of cure in the matter of controlling diseases 
and insects. Clean garden soil aids in keep- 
ing out insects and disease. All plants 
purchased should be healthy and free from 
disease. The roots should not be swollen 
or knotted. Treat Irish potatoes for scab 
before planting. Do not plant cabbage 
having clubroot or sweet potatoes iiffected 
with black-rot. 

Many insects carry disease and spores 
from one plant to another as well as attack- 
ing the crops directly. 

Avoid wounding or bruising plants and 
vegetables when cultivating and harvesting 
them, to prevent certain insects from gaining 
access to them. 

Have order, neatness and cleanliness in 
the garden. In the fall turn under promptly, 
all vegetation so that insects and disease 
spores may not find winter quarters. Keep 
down all weeds, as a great many insects feed 
naturally upon them. All diseased plants which 
remain at the end of the season should be 
burned, as should all rubbish which is of such 
character that it will not decay and is there- 
fore not useful in making compost. This 
includes trash, sticks and the like. It may 
seem like a waste of vegetable matter to 
burn the dead tomato vines, bean vines and 
other plant tops which have been diseased, 
but this should be done because to save or 
compost these for fertilizer would simply be 
maturing and saving millions of disease 
spores which would be on hand ready to 
attack the crops next year. More than this, 
a clean garden appeals to the eye and to the 
pride of the owner as a winter landscape. 

Corn stalks, cabbage leaves and stumps, 
beet tops if not canned, and other healthy 
plants should be saved for mulching or be 
added to the compost heap. 



The remnants of vegetable matter, which 
are not infected with disease or insects, 
should be made into compost heaps for the 
coming year and covered with stable ma- 




Fig 24 — Emphasizing tlic important i- of spraying. On 
the left is a potato plant which was not sprayed. The 
ravages of the potato bug are plainly shown. On the 
right is a plant which was properly sprayed as a pre- 
ventive measure. 

nure and dirt to hasten decay, as decayed 
vegetable matter enriches the soil. (Direc- 
tions for making a compost heap are given 
on page 5). Plowing or deep spading in 
the fall is important, as it breaks up the 
winter homes of underground insect pests. 
Rotation of crops also lessens the danger of 
attacks from insects and diseases. 



TAKE NO CHANCES 

Too much emphasis cannot be placed 
on the need for taking precautions 
against diseases and insects. Familiar- 
ize yourself with such diseases and 
insects as prevail in your neighborhood 
on the crops you plan to raise. Then 
provide yourself in advance with 
remedies and equipment. Watch care- 
fully for first signs of trouble and 
apply remedies at once. Inspect your 
garden every two or three da>'s. 



20 



NOTE 

as soon as they appear 



WAR GARDENING 

PREVENTIVES AND REMEDIES 

It is important that immediate attention be given insects and diseases 



Delay in spraying or removal may prove fatal. 
ASPARAGUS 



Rust — (Rusty appearance of leaves and stems). — 
Procure rust resistant variet>% such as Reading 
Giant or Palmetto. 



Beetles — -(Eat young stems and leaves). 

Remedy : On young plants spray with arsenate 
of lead when pests appear, repeating 10 days later 
and again 10 days later if necessary. Add an 
ounce of laundry soap per gallon of spray to make 
it stick to the foliage. Do not use arsenate of 
lead on new stems used for food during cutting 
season. On old plants, spray after cutting 
season. Nicotine sulphate sprayed on the young 
insects will kill all it hits. 



BEETS 



Leaf spot — (Reddish and purple spots, turning ashy 
gray). — Usually not affecting garden beets. 

Remedy: Spray with Bordeaux mixture when 
plants are 3 to 4 inches high, repeating 2 and 4 
weeks later. 
Web worm — (Eats the leaves). 

Remedy: Spray with arsenate of lead when 
worms appear; repeat when necessary. 



Spinach aphis — (Sucks sap from leaves). 

Remedy: Spray with nicotine sulphate when 
pests appear and repeat when' necessary. In 
order to strike the aphids the spray must be 
directed against the undersides of the leaves. 
Beet-root aphis — (Sucks sap from roots). 

Remedy: Pour a small amount of nicotine 
sulphate spray around roots and repeat if necessary. 



BUSH BEANS 



Anthracnose — (Dark, sunken spots, scab-like, on 
pods; spots on leaves). — -Pick and burn diseased 
pods. In saving seed discard those from diseased 
plants, as seed carry the infection. 

Leaf beetles — fVery small, dark or pale stripes; eat 
leaves). 

Remedy: Spray with arsenate of lead when 
pests appear, repeat in 10 days and later if neces- 
sary. Bordeaux mixture repels but does not kill. 



Aphids or plant lice — (Suck sap from plant and 
make leaves crumple). 

Remedy: Spray with nicotine sulphate when 
pests appear, repeating when and as often as 
necessary. Crumpled leaves protect lice from 
spray, and should be picked and burned. Ap- 
ply spray to underside of leaves, to strike aphids. 

Bacterial blight — -(Water soaked spots on leaves 
and pods). — -No satisfactory remedy. Pull up 
and burn plants. 

Downy Mildew — -(thick white growth). — Burn all 
diseased pods. Spray with Bordeaux mixture, 
repeating every ten days if necessary. 



CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER 



Club root — -(Root swells and decays). — Pull up and 
burn plants. 

Preventive: In spring apply 1 lb. lime to each 
8 sq. ft. of ground before setting out plants. 
Black rot — (Leaves turn yellow, then brown and 
black and decay. Pull up and burn plants.) 

Preventive: Soak seed 15 minutes in solution 
made of ],i oz. formalin and 3 pints water; rinse 
in clean water; plant at once. 
Yellows — -(Leaves turn yellow, then brown, and drop). 
Pull up and burn plants. 

Preventive: Treat seed as for black rot. 
Cabbage worms — (Eat leaves). 

Remedy: When worms appear spray with 
arsenate of lead, repeating if necessary before 
heads form. Add an ounce of laundry soap per 
gallon of spray to make it stick to the leaves. Do 
not use arsenate of lead later than 3 weeks 
before using or marketing cabbage. 
Aphids or lice — (Suck sap from leaves). 

Remedy: Spray with nicotine sulphate solu- 
tion when pests appear; repeat if necessary. 
Cabbage looper — (Eats leaves'). 

Remedy: Treat as for cabbage worms. 



Cabbage Maggots — (Tunnel inside of roots). 

Preventive: When plants are set out take a 
piece of tarred building paper 2 or 3 inches in 
diameter, cut a slit from one side to center, and 
4 or 5 slits at center. Fit this around stem by 
slipping plant through the long slit, and press 
paper firmly against ground, to prevent young 
maggots from reaching root. 

Black leg — (Diseased, sunken areas on stem, leaf 
stem and leaves, plant becoming purplish). — 
There is no remedy. Pull up and burn plants. 

Preventive: Disinfect seed for 10 minutes with 
1 tablet of corrosive sublimate mixed in 1 pint 
of water. 

Cutworms — (Dark colored, eat young plants off at 
surface of earth). 

Remedy: Spread poisoned bran mash over 
ground before setting out plants; spread around 
plants when set. Afterwards spread poisoned bait 
around plants as necessary to control worms. 
It is wise to wrap paper around stem from leaves 
to root just before setting out. Cutworms are 
especially abundant where sod has grown. 



CELERY AND CELERIAC 



Blight or leaf spot — (Gray or brown spots, drooping 
stems). 

Remedy: Spray young seedlings, in seed box 
or seed bed, with Bordeaux mixture. Spray 
again as soon as set in garden, repeating 10 to 
14 days later. Repeat again if necessary. Spray- 
ing in seed bed must not be neglected if disease 
appears. 

SWISS CHARD 

Leaf spot — -(Symptoms same as with beets). 

Remedy: When disease appears, spray as di- 
rected for beets. (Usually no spraying will be 
found necessary). Wash sprayed leaves well 
before using. 



Damping off — (Small seedlings dying in seed bed). 

Preventive: Care should be taken to water 

and partially shade the young seedlings in hot 

and dry weather. As soon as seed are planted 

cover bed with thin layer of sand. 



SPINACH 

Aphids — (Suck sap from leaves). 

Remedy: Spray under side of leaves with 
nicotine sulphate, when aphids appear. Repeat 
a second and third time if necessary. 



THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 21 



CORN 



Smut — (Large, black, irregular swellings on ears 
or tops). The only remedy is to cut off and bura 
the smut swellings. 

Cornear worms — (Bore through husk and eat the 
young kernels). Kill all worms which are found 
when husking corn for use. 



Cutworms — (A dark worm which cuts plant off at 
surface of earth when plant is small). 

Remedy: Use poisoned bait in the same 
manner prescribed for cabbage. Repeat if nec- 
essary. Being a night worker the cut-worm is 
usually found in the morning in the ground by 
cut off plants. Dig out and kill. 

Seed Corn Maggot — ■(Tunnels in seed, sprouts and 
stems of plants). — .A.pply liquid poisoned bait 
with a whisk broom. 



CUCUMBERS 



Anthracnose — (Brown spots on leaves). 

Remedy: Spray with Bordeau.x mi.\ture when 
plants begin to form vines. Repeat two or three 
times if necessary, at intervals of 2 weeks. 

Downy mildew — (Yellow spots on leaves). 
Remedy: Treat as for anthracnose. 

Wilt — -(Leaves droop and wilt ciuickly). — Pull up and 
burn plants. Striped beetles act as carriers of this 
disease and should be controlled carefully. 

Stink bug or squash bug — (Sucks sap from leaves 
and injects an injurious substance). 

Remedy: Pick them or shake them into pan 
of water and kerosene. Destroy egg masses. 
Place small pieces of boards near hills. The 
bugs will collect underneath these and may 
be easily crushed. 



Striped beetle or 12-spotted beetle — (Both eat 
leaves). 

Preventive: Cover young plants with protectors 
of cheesecloth or wire gauze. 

Control: Mix arsenate of lead in the Bordeaux 
mixture which is used for diseases. Another 
remedy is to cover leaves with tobacco dust. 
Treatment should be given as soon as beetles 
appear, or when covers are removed. Repeat 5 
days later and again 5 days later, with further 
repetitions when necessary. 
Vine borer — -(Worm which bores into vine at surface 
of earth). 

Remedy: Carefully cut the vine lengthwise, 
remove borer and kill. As plants grow throw 
earth over vine at every other joint, in order that 
new roots may form and to keep the vine growing. 



EGGPLANT 



Blight or wilt — (Whole plant wilts). — Xo remedy. 

Pull up and burn plants. 
Flea beetle — (Small jumping beetle which eats 

leaves). 

Remedy: Spray with Bordeaux mixture and 

arsenate of lead combination. 

ONIONS 

Thrips — fV'erj' small sucking insects, which cause 
leaves to turn a silvery color or whitish, and 
later to curl and twist). 

Remedy: Spray with nicotine sulphate solu- 
tion when pests apjjear, repeating once or twice as 
necessary. 
Cutworms — (Dark worms which attack onions as 
they do corn). 

Remedy: Same as with corn. 
Onion Maggot — (Rats bulb, inducing decay). — 
Remedy: Apply liquid poisoned bait witli a 
whisk broom. 



Anthracnose — (Dark sunken spots in fruit; cracks in 
leaves). 

Remedy: Spray with Bordeaux mixture when 
plants are set, repeating 10 days later and again 
10<days later. 

PEAS 

Powdery mildew — (Covers plant with powdery 
white growth). 

Remedy: Use pulverized sulphur or flowers 
of sulphur, or Bordeaux mixture, by sprinkling on 
plants when mildew appears, just before bloom 
appears. Repeat if necessary two weeks later 
and again 2 weeks later. 
Pea Aphis. 

Remedy: Same as for bean aphis. 



POTATOES 



Early blight — (Brown spots, with concentric rings on 
leaves. Worst in moist weather.) 

Remedy: Spray with Bordeaux mixture when 
plants are 6 inches high. Repeat two weeks 
later and again two weeks later. 

Late blight — -(Dark brown spots on leaves, appearing 
water soaked and not having concentric rings. 
The spots become yellow and the leaves die. 
Worst in hot, sultry weather, August and Septem- 
ber. Lives over winter in seed potatoes.) 
Remedy: Same as for early blight. 



Colorado potato beetle — (The common potato bug, 
which eats leaves). 

Remedy: Spray with arsenate of lead when 
beetles appear. Repeat when and as often as is 
necessary. Hand picking is effective, as is also 
knocking the bugs into a pan of water containing 
some kerosene. 
Blister beetle — (Long black potato bug or old fash- 
ioned potato bug. Eats leaves.) 

Remedy: Same as for Colorado potato beetle. 
Flea beetle — (Small, jumping insect which eats leaves, 
usually appearing when plant is small). 

Remedy: Si)ray as for Colorado potato beetle. 



SWEET POTATOES 



Beetles — (Eat foliage). 

Control: Spray with arsenate of lead and 
lime. 
Cutworms — -(Worms which cut plants off at the 
surface of earth). 

Control: L^se poisoned bait in the same manner 
as prescribed for cabbage. 

PUMPKIN 

This plant is subject to the same diseases and insects 
as cucumber, and should be treated the same way. 



Black Rot — (Black, sunken and nearly circular spots 
appear on tubers. It begins as small spots on 
stems and spreads until the stems rot off.) 

Control: Use only sound healthy tubers to 
produce healthy plants. 



RUTABAGA 

This plant is sv.bject to the same pests as cabbage and 
should be treated the same way. 



22 WAR GARDENING 



AVOID WASTE— STORE, CAN OR DRY 

The home gardener must remember that his responsibility does not end with the 
maturity and harvesting of his crops. Authorities are agreed that after several years 
of war 1919 will see the world's food shortage more marked than ever before. For 
this reason the matured crops must be considered as only a beginning. Garden products 
must be put by for winter use in order that the abundance of the growing season may 
be made to supply the needs of the months of non-production. 

EVERY POUND OF THE SUMMER'S CROP THAT CAN BE SPARED FROM 
THE SUMMER DIET MUST BE STORED, CANNED OR DRIED IF AMERICA 
IS TO GIVE THE WORLD THE FULL WORTH OF HER HOME GARDEN 
PRODUCTION. NOTHING MUST GO TO WASTE. 

Vast quantities of foodstuffs must be sent overseas to feed the people of starving 
Europe. In order that a sufficient volume of exportable food may be available for this 
purpose it is imperative that the home-grown foodstuffs be made to supply this coun- 
try's household needs, as far as possible, for the coming winter. 

For home storage complete directions are given in Part II of this book. 

For home canning and home drying full details are given in a manual issued by the 
Commission. The book also contains directions for jelly making, the making of fruit 
butters, pickling, fermentation and salting. 

For a copy of the book on canning, drying, etc., write to the National War Garden 
Commission, Washington, D. C. 



RADISH RHUBARB 

Cabbage maggot— (Small worm which tunnels into pig^ beetle— (Eats smalljioles in the leaves). 

the radish). Remedy: Same as for flea beetle of potato. 

Preventive: Sprinkle tobacco dust along row applied when beetles first appear and repeated 

when seed is planted, or spread sand on which when necessary, 

kerosene has been sprinkled along the row when 
plants are small. Burn all plants that may be 

TURNIP SQUASH 

Subject to the same diseases and insects as cabbage. This plant is subject to the same diseases and insects aa 
and should be treated the same way. cucumbers and should be treated the same way. 

TOMATOES 

Leaf spot, or blight — (Leaves become spotted, turn Wilt— (Causes plant to wilt and die). — Pull up and 
yellow and drop; stems dry up and fruits drop). burn plants. 

Remedy: Spraying is not entirely effective but ~ ^ ,•, i j .. n 

is helpful Spray with Bordeaux mixture whi-e Tomato worms-(Large green naked caterpillar, 
planks are small in seed box or seed bed. Repeat which eats 'eaves). , , , , ^ ^ ^ 

soon after transplanting to garden and repeat ■J^^T'^h^^ ^'"^ }'^ ^fL^""^ i%tl'^^'J^r^T L 

again 3 weeks later and every 3 weeks while ^^'^^ lead arsenate solution. (These worms do 

disease exists. "^^^ often appear in large numbers.) 

Fruit rot— (Decay begins at blossom end of fruit). Cutworms — (Dark worms which cut plants off at the 
Preventive: In the absence of an effective surface of earth), 

remedy the only safeguard is to cultivate well and Remedy: Sarne as with cabbage, 

be careful to water as the plants need. 

Anthracnose — -(Sunken, discolored spots in fruit, Flea beetle — -(Small jumping beetle which eats small 
followed by decay). holes in leaves). 

Remedy: Same as for leaf spot. Remedy: Same as with potatoes. 

WATERMELON 

Anthracnose — (Brown spots on leaves; small sunken Insects — This plant is subject to the same insects as 
spots on fruit). cucumber and should be treated the same way. 

Remedy: Spray with Bordeaux mixture when 
melons are half grown. Repeat 10 days later and 
again if necessary. 



YOUR QUESTIONS WILL BE ANSWERED 

This Commission maintains a Department of Household Science which will welcome 
questions connected with Gardening, Canning, Drying and kindred subjects. Tech- 
nically trained workers, of practical experience, will give prompt attention to all in- 
quiries. Address Department of Household Science, National War Garden Com- 
mission, Washington, D. C. 



THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 23 



PLANTING TABLE 



Vegetable 



Asparagus, seed . . . . 
Asparagus, plants. . . 

Beans, snap 

Beans, pole 

Beans, Lima, bush . . 

Beans, Lima, pole. . . 

Beets 

Brussels sprouts. . . . 
Cabbage, early 



Cabbage, late. 

Carrot 

Cauliflower . . . 



Celery. 



Chard 

Com, sweet. . 
Cress, upland. 
Cucumber. . . . 
Eggplant 



Endive 

Horse-radish. 
Kale 



Kohlrabi. . . 
Lettuce .... 
Muskmelon. 



Okra, or gumbo. 

Onion, seed 

Onion, sets 



Parsley . 

Parsnip . 
Peas. . . , 
Pepper., 



Potato, Irish 

Potato, sweet. . . 

Pumpkin 

Radish 

Rhubarb, plants. 

Rutabaga 

Salsify 

Spinach 



Squash, bush. . 
Squash, late. . . 
Tomato, seed . . 
Tomato, plants. 



Turnip 

Veg. marrow. 
Watermelon . 



Quantity 

required 

for 100 

feet of row 



1 oz 

60 to 80 

Vi to 1 pt . . 
J-i Pt 

y2 to 1 pt. . 



Hpt. 

2 oz. . 

Moz. 
M oz. 



M oz. . . 

1 oz . . . . 
1 packet. 



Vz oz. 
Hpt. 
M oz. 
H oz. 
Moz. 



1 oz . . . . 
70 roots. 
y?.oz. . . 



4 oz. 

-2 oz. 

/2 oz. 



2 oz. . 
1 oz. . 
Iqt.. 

^oz. 



1 to 2Jpts... 
H oz 



5 lbs. . . 
75 slips. 
}^ oz . . 
1 oz. . . 

33 

K oz . . . 
)^ oz . . , 
1 oz . . . 



Vi oz. . . 

H oz . . . 
Vzoz... 
33 to 40. 



V2 OZ. 

Vi OZ. 

>2 OZ. 



Distance Apart 
In Inches 



Rows 



12 to 24. 
36 to 48. 
20 to 24. 
36 to 48. 
18 to 24 . 

36 to 48. 
12 to 18. 
24 to 30. 
24 to 30. 



24 to 36. 
18 to 24. 
24 to 30. 



18 to 36. 



18 to 24. 
30 to 36. 
12 to 18. 
48 to 72. 
24 to 36. 



18 

24 to 30. 
18 to 24. 



18 to 24.. 
12 to 18.. 
72 to 96.. 



36 to 48. 
12 to 18. 
12 to 18. 

12 to 18. 

18 to 24. 
36 to 48. 
18 to 24. 



24 to 36.. 
36 to 60.. 
96 to 144. 
12 to 18.. 
36 to 60.. 
18 to 24.. 
18 to 24.. 
12 to 18.. 



36 to 48.... 
84 to 120... 
36 to 48.... 
36 to 48 



18 to 24.. .. 
96 to 144... 
96 to 120... 



In Row 



3 to 5 

15 to 20 

4 to 6 

Hills 24-36. 
4 to 6 



Hills 24 to 36. 
5 or 6 to ft. . . 

16 to 24 

12 to 18 



16 to 24.... 
6 or 7 to ft. 
14 to 18.... 



4 to 8. 



4 to 6 to ft . 
30 to 36.. .. 
4 to 5 to ft . 
48 to 72 ... . 
18 to 24..., 



8 to 10. 
4 to 6.. 
6 to 8.. 



4 to 6.. . 
4 to 6.. . 
Hills 72. 



24 to 30 

5 or 10 to ft . 
4 or 5 to ft . . 



3 to 6. 



4 or 6 to ft . 
15 to ft. . . . 
15 to 18.... 



14 to 18 

14 

96 to 144 

8 or 12 to ft .. . 
36 to 48 

6 to 8 

2 to 4 

7 or 8 to ft ... . 

Hills 36 to48. . 
Hi.ls 84 to 108 . 

30 to 36 

30 to 36 



6 or 7 to ft ... . 
Hills 96 to 108. 
96 to 120 



Depth of 

Planting 

Inches 



J-^ to 1 . 
8 to 10. 
1 



1 

1 



1 

1 to 2. 



Vi.... 



1 to2.. 
Yi to 1. 
1 



to 1. 



3 to 4. 

Vi-... 



1 to2.. 

2 to 1. 

to 2.. 



'.'2 to 1. 

I to 4 . . 



3 to 5. 
2 to 3. 



* NOTE 
H to 1.. 



1 to 2. 



\i to 1 . 



M to Vo. 
1 to 2 . . . 



Time of Planting 



Early spring. . . 
Early spring. . . . 
XpnX to August. 
May and June. . 
May and June. . 



April to June 

April to July 

Vpril to August 

March and April 
(Start in hotbed dur- 
ing February) . . . 

May and June 

April to June 

April to June (Start in 
hotbed d uring Feb 
ruary or March). . . . 

May and June. (Start 
in hotbed during 
March or April). . . 

.April to July 

May to July 

March to May 

April to July 

.April and May. (Start 
in hotbed during 
March) 

Midsummer , 

Early spring , 

Early spring and Aug- 
ust and September. 

.\pril to August 

March to September. . 

April to June. (Start 
early plants in hot- 
bed during March). . 

May and June 

April and May 

\utumn and ^larch to 
May 

Early spring and Sep- 
tember 

.A-pril and May 

March to June 

May and June. (Start 
early plants in hot- 
bed during March). . 

March to June 

March to June 

May 

March to September.. . 

Early spring 

May and June 

Early spring 

September or very 
early spring 

April to June 

.April to June 

May and June. (Start 
early plants in hot- 
bed during February 
and March) 

-April and August 

April to June 

May 



Mature 

(In days, 

except as 

noted) 



3 to 4 yrs. 
1 to 3 yrs. 
40 to 65.. 
50 to 80.. 
60 to 90. . 

60 to 80. . 
60 to 80 . . 
60 to 80.. 



90 to 130.. 
90 to 130.. 
75 to 110., 



100 to 130. 



120 to 150 
60 to 80.. 
60 to 100. 
30 to 40.. 
60 to 80.. 



100 to 140. 
90»to 180.. 
1 to2 yrs.. 

90 to 120.. 
60 to 80.. . 
60 to 90... 



120 to 150. 
60 to 90... 
130 to 150. 

90 to 120.. 

90 to 120.. 
125 to 160. 
40 to 80.. . 



100 to 140. 
to 140.. 
100 to 130. 
100 to 140. 
20 to 40.. . 
1 to 3 vrs. . 
60 to 80.. . 
120 to 180. 

30 to 60.. . 
60 to 80.. . 
120 to 160. 
100 to 140. 



80 to 100.. 
60 to 80. . . 
110 to 140. 
100 to 120. 



* NOTE. — Set rhubarb plants so that growing tips are at surface of ground. 



Absolute dates for planting can not be given, because of variations in seasons 
from year to year and varying climatic conditions in different sections. For general 
guidance see "When to Plant," on page 10. 



PART II 

HOME STORAGE MANUAL FOR 
VEGETABLES AND APPLES 

No form of Food Conservation is more important than the home storage 
of vegetables for winter use. Canning and drying are essential to the nation's 
food supply, and should be practised to the fullest possible extent, but they do 
not take the place of storage. To keep vegetables in their natural state is the 
simplest form of preparation for winter needs. By taking proper -precautions 
against decay and freezing an abundant supply of certain kinds of fresh 
vegetables may be kept at minimum expenditure of money and effort. 



STORAGE HELPS SOLVE FOOD PROBLEM 



The importance of making provision for 
winter food needs is even greater this year 
than it was in 1918. Every pound of food- 
stuffs that can be spared for export will be 
needed in Europe for feeding American 
troops and to prevent the starvation of the 
domestic and military populations of the 
Allied nations. Every pound of vegetables 
stored away for home uses will release ex- 
portable food. A nation with a food short- 
age is a nation in peril. For this reason 
it is of vital importance that no vegetables 
of high food value be allowed to go to 
waste. To save is to be patriotic. 

The home gardening campaign conducted 
by the National War Garden Commission 
will this year result in the creation of a vast 
new planting area. The output of these 
gardens is greatly in excess of immediate 
needs. Unless proper steps are taken to 
safeguard the surplus the waste will be pro- 
digious. This Commission will stimulate 
nation-wide activity in canning and drying. 
An important purpose of this booklet is to 
arouse similar interest in the storage of 
vegetables. 

WHAT AND HOW TO STORE 

There are many vegetables which can 
be stored to good advantage. Included in 
the list are Potatoes, Beets, Carrots, Parsnips, 
Onions, Sweet Potatoes, Celery, Salsify, 
Cabbage, Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, Win- 
ter Squash, Turnips, Beans and Lima Beans. 
Good results in storage depend upon: 

1 — Ventilation. 

2 — Regulation of temperature. 

3 — Sufficient moisture. 

4 — Quality of vegetables stored. 



For some vegetables satisfactory storage 
places are afforded by the pantry shelf or 
attic. For others the cellar is the right 
place. For others outdoor storage is pref- 
erable. This may take the form of pits or 
banks, or it may be done in hillside caves 
or cellars. 

COMMUNITY STORAGE 

Especially good results may be obtained 
if several neighboring families will form 
community clubs to provide storage facili- 
ties. In this way very complete provision 
may be made for handling winter supplies 
at slight trouble and expense to the indi- 
vidual household. 

Community or co-operative storage may 
be effected in various ways. Several fami- 
lies may join together and construct out- 
door cellars or they may join in the use of 
an available building conveniently located 
in which vegetables may be stored in large 
quantities. 

CELLAR STORAGE 

Beets Parsnips 

Cabbage Potatoes 

Carrots Salsify 

Celery Turnips 

In a house heated by a cellar furnace 
vegetables may be stored to good advantage 
in the cellar. Partition off a small room as 
far as possible from the heating plant. Two 
sides of this room should be outside walls. 
There should be at least one outside win- 
dow, for temperature regulation and venti- 
lation. The suggested arrangement in Figure 
1 shows ventilation afforded by a stove- 



STORE YOUR SURPLUS FOR WINTER 




Fig. 1 — This suggests an arrangement for storage in a cool cellar. An earth floor is best, as it gives off some mois- 
ture. If the floor is of concrete it should be covered with 2 or 3 inches of sand and this should be sprinkled with 
water occasionally. In the drawing a pane in the upper part of one window is shown to be missing. Tliis 
is to allow the escape of heated air. In severely cold weather close these openings. The stove pipe fitted into 
the place for one of the lower panes admits cold air. Instead of a stove pipe a wooden flue, made of old boards 
or parts of boxes, may be used. Bins and boxes should be placed on slats to lift t'lem from the floor and allow 
circulation. For this same purpose bins and boxes should be at least one or two inches from the wall. Air holes 
bored ii^ sides and bottom of bins and bo.xes help circulation. Protect glass jars from light. 



pipe inserted through one of the lower 
panes of the window, to admit cold air and 
indicates the removal of one of the upper 
panes of glass to allow the escape of warm 
air. This affords constant circulation. 

An earth floor is desirable, but this is not 
always possible, as most city and many town 
and country houses have floors of concrete. 
In a cellar with a concrete floor the concrete 
should be covered with two or three inches 
of sand, which should be sprinkled with water 
froiii time to time. 

In this room may be stored Beets, Car- 
rots, Cabbage, Celery, Parsnips, Salsify, 
Turnips and Potatoes. (Special attention is 
given Potatoes on page 28.) Put them in 
bins or in boxes, baskets, slat crates or bar- 
rels. It is best to use movable containers 
and small ones. Bins should not hold more 
than two or three bushels apiece, as the 
larger bulk brings danger of heating and 
consequent decay. There should be full 
protection from mice. 

The vegetables shoifld be hars^ested when 
the ground is dry, if possible, and should 
lie outdoors a few hours until any surface 
moisture on them has evaporated. Remove 
the tops, leaving an inch or so, from beets, 
turnips, carrots and salsify. To lea\e an 
inch or so of top prevents bleeding and dry- 
ing out. Sort vegetables according to size 
and condition. Imperfect or bruised ones 
should be selected for immediate use and 
only sound vegetables should be stored. 

In cellar storage beets, turnips and carrots 
may be buried in slightly damp sand to good 
purpose. 



Cabbages may be stored in the cellar in 
boxes or barrels of earth or sand, or they may 
be placed in a cool cellar on the floor with 
roots up. 

Celery, to be stored in a cellar, should be 
allowed to stay in the garden until there is 
danger of severe freezing. In order to pro- 
long the period of keeping it outdoors the 
plants should be protected from frost by 
banking them with earth to within two or 
three inches of the tops. On cold nights 
protect the tops with paper, burlap, mats, 
straw or other covering. The importance of 
not harvesting at the first appearance of frost 
arises from the fact that this period is likely 
to be followed by warm weather, which will 
cause decay by creating too high a tempera- 
ture in the place of storage. With the arrival 
of steady cool weather, which will freeze the 
plants, dig them, leaving some soil adhering 
to the roots. For cellar storage place the 
plants upright, covering the roots with three 
or four inches of sand or light soil. (Fig. 2.) 
Earth may be banked around the stalks but 
this is not necessary. Water the soil oc- 
casionally, being sure to keep the leaves and 
stalks dry to prevent decay. 

Celery may also be stored in cellar boxes, 
following these same directions. 

The cellar storage room may also be used 
for the storage of fresh fruits and for canned 
goods, preserves and dried vegetables and 
fruits. Fig. 1 shows a suggested arrange- 
ment for shelves for canned and dried articles. 
If the shelves are not protected from light 
by doors all canned goods in glass should be 
wrapped in brown paper, to prevent bleaching 



26 



HOME STORAGE 



of the contents as a result of exposure to the 
light. 

Wide fluctuations of temperature should 
be avoided. The ideal temperature is 40 
degrees F. The root cellar should be kept 
at not less than 32 degrees and not over 
50 degrees. 

PIT STORAGE 



Beets 


Potatoes 


Carrots 


Turnips 


Cabbage 


Salsify 


Celery 


Parsnips 



For outdoor storage one of the best forms 
is a mound shaped pit. To prepare for this 
remove two or three inches of earth and 
line this shallow excavation with hay, straw, 
leaves or similar material. Place the vege- 
tables on this in a conical pile. Cover the 
vegetables with several inches of the material 
used in making the lining. Cover this \yith 
3 or 4 inches of earth. As severe weather 
ajSproaches the outer covering should be 
increased. An additional layer of hay or 
similar material may be placed over the 
layer of earth and on top of this another layer 
of earth. In extremely cold climates the 
total thickness of earth layers should be as 
much as 12 inches. Over the outer layer of 
earth pile manure or corn stalks for added 
protection. To give ventilation have the 
inner layer of straw project through the outer 
covering and extend to the top of the cone. 
For protection from rain and snow this 
opening should be covered. A board laid 
over the top and weighted with a stone is 




Fig. 2 — For storage in cellar without heater celery 
should be set in two or three inches of sand or light 
soil and the plants then banked with soil. The soil 
must not be allowed to become dry. 

suitable for this purpose. An idea of the 
construction is given in Fig. 5. 

It is well to make several small pits rather 
than one large one, for the reason that when a 
pit has been once opened the entire contents 
should be removed. This form of storage is 
used for potatoes, beetsf carrot, turnips, 
parsnips, cabbage and salsify. It i§ well to 
store sev&ral varieties of vegetables in one 
pit so that the opening of a single pit will 



afford a supply of all of them. In following 
this plan it is desirable to separate the various 
crops by the use of straw or leaves. 

When a pit has been opened it is impossible 
to give adequate protection to vegetables 
therein. For this reason those not required 
for immediate use should be removed, placed 
in the basement storage room, or other cool 




Fig 3 — ShiUow bins or shelves with board side-- for 
''toring root crops in cool cellar The air of the room 
must not be allowed to become too dry, as this will 
cause the vegetables to shrivel. Potatoes must be 
protected from light. 

place, and used as needed. This emphasizes 
the importance of making small pits, each 
one holding not more than two to six weeks' 
supply. 

Instead of making a dirt pit, barrels may 
be used in which to place vegetables. (Fig. 
8.) Make a slight depression the length of 
the barrel and put in a thick layer of straw or 
leaves. On this place the barrel. Cover the 
barrel with successive layers of straw or 
leaves, and dirt. As the weather grows colder 
put on more dirt until there is from 14 to 18 
inches of covering. For ease in opening 
make a door at one end, against which pile 
earth and manure of sufficient thickness to 
prevent freezing. 

Cabbage 

For late varieties of cabbage the pit should 
be long and narrow. The cabbages are placed 
in rows with heads down and covered with 
dirt. No other covering is needed. The 
removal of a portion of this supply does not 
disturb the remainder. (Fig. 6.) 

Cabbages may also be stored by placing 
the whole plants in a trench, roots down and 
plants close together. The roots should be 
covered with dirt. A frame should be built 
around the trench by driving stakes at the 
corners and placing boards against these to 
form the enclosure. The construction of 
such a trench is shown in Fig. 7. The boards 
are banked with earth and across the top of 
the trench boards or poles are placed, sup- 
ported by the frame. These should be cov- 
ered with straw, hay or corn fodder, for pro- 
tection of the contents of the trench. Two 
feet of the straw or similar material will be 
required in cold climates. 

Mature heads of cabbagS of long-keeping 
sorts, such as Danish Ball Head, may be cut 



STORE YOUR SURPLUS FOR WINTER 



27 



from the plant and stored one layer deep on 
shelves in cool, frost-proof cellars. 

Celery 

In storing celery in a pit or trench, the 
plants are set side by side as close as they 
may be packed and wide boards set up 




Fig. 4 — For squashes, sweet potal 
afford good storage. 



and puinpkujs 



along the outside edges of the pit. Dirt is 
banked up against these boards and the top 
covered with corn fodder or similar covering. 
If celery is kept in the row* where grown the 
earth should be banked around the plants 
with the approach of cold w^eather. For 
freezing w'eather bring the dirt to the tops of 
the plants and cover the ridge w'ith coarse 
manure, straw or fodder, using stakes or 
boards to hold the covering in place. Only 
late maturing and late planted celery can be 
safely stored. (Fig. 9.) 

A hotbed, instructions for the making of 
which are given on page 7 (Fig. 2), in Part I 
of this booklet, makes an excellent place for 
outdoor storage for celery. The surplus 
earth and manure should be removed and a 
board covering should be substituted for the 
sash and glass. Store the celery in the same 
manner as in pit storage. For protection from 
cold use any covering that will prevent freezing. 

Celery should not be stored with turnips or 
cabbage. It will absorb odors from these 
vegetables and its flavor will be impaired. 

OUTDOOR CELLAR 

Beets Potatoes 

Carrots Turnips 

Parsnips Salsify 

Cabbage 

An outdoor cellar makes a good storage 
place. In cold climates this should be par- 



tially underground. A side-hill location is 
desirable for ease In handling the vege- 
tables. To make such a cellar dig an excava- 
tion and In this erect a frame by setting 
posts in rows near the dirt walls. Saw 
these posts off at uniform height and place 
plates on their tops. On these plates place 
rafters. Board up completely 
with the exception of a place 
for the door. The whole should 
be covered with dirt and sod, 
and in cold climates added pro- 
tection should be given by a 
layer of straw, fodder or simi- 
lar material. Ventilate with a 
flue. A dirt floor is best, as 
some moisture is desirable. This 
form of storage is especially 
good for the joint use of several 
families. 

On a more pretentious scale 
cellars of this nature may be 
made of brick, stone or concrete. 
Such cellars afford practically 
perfect storage room for pota- 
toes, carrots, cabbages, parsnips, 
beets, turnips and salsify. 

.car furnace VARIOUS METHODS 

Permanent cold frames, with 
deep pits, may also be used to advantage in 
storing vegetables if the drainage is made 
thorough. After the frames are filled the sash 
should be covered with boards and the outside 
banked with soil or manure. As the w^eather 
becomes severe a covering of straw or mats 
is necessary'. This covering should be hea^^ 
enough to prevent freezing. 

Cauliflower and Brussels Sprouts which 
have not matured may be taken up and 




GROli WDLE VE^ 



Fig. 5 — Irisli potatoes in an outdoor mound. This 
mound must be in a well-drained location. After re- 
moving 2 or 3 inches of earth, pile the potatoes on a 
2 or 3-inch laver of dry straw, leaves or hay. Cover the 
vecjetables with 2 or 3 inches of straw, leaves or hay, 
and cover this with 3 or 4 inches of earth. Increase 
the thickness of the earth layer as severe weather 
approaches, making it as much as 12 inches in extremely 
cold climates. Manure or corn stalks should be piled 
over the mor.nd. The straw, coming to the top, will 
afford ventilation. The opening should be covered 
for protection from rain. 

planted in shallow boxes of soil in a light 
place in the cellar. If kept well watered 
they will mature for winter use. 



28 



HOME STORAGE 



Dry beans may be stored in cloth bags 
in a pantry or in any cool, dry and well 
ventilated room. The bags should be hung 
away from the floor to prevent damage by 
rats and mice. 

Onions require a cool, dry place. They 
should be cured by being exposed to the 
air for a few days in the shade. The tops 
should be removed before storing. Keep 
them in baskets, trays or other holders 
which let the air circulate. Onions are not 
damaged by temperatures slightly below 
freezing, and for storing them the attic is 
better than the cellar. If stored in the cellar 
they should be suspended from the ceiling. 

Squashes are susceptible to cold and 
moisture, and for that reason should be 
stored in a dry place where the tempera- 
ture will be between 50 and 60 degrees F. 
Squashes may be kept by placing them in a 
single layer on a dry floor and covering 
with rugs or carpets, but care must be 
taken that the stems are not broken off and 
that they do not become bruised before 
storing. Whenever it is found that any of 
the squashes or pumpkins are showing signs 
of decay, the sound portions should be 
canned. 

Tomatoes may be saved by pulling up the 
entire plant before freezing weather. The 
vines should be suspended by the roots in a 
cool cellar. The tomatoes will gradually 
ripen. If these tomatoes, when cooked, are 
found to be acid, the acidity can be over- 
come by using baking soda. 

Parsley may be saved by transplanting 
into flower pots late in the fall. These 
should be kept in windows where they will 
receive sunshine. 

Parsnips and salsify are not injured by 
remaining in the ground all winter. Enough 
for inmiediate needs may be dug in the 
fall and the others harvested as required. 



"^TS^'^IB"--- 



^ROUNO 



Fig. 6 — Cabbage stored, rool.-, up, in a baiiK. of tartli. 
The place must be well drained. The cabbages are 
covered with earth, but this need not be as thick as for 
some vegetables, as slight freezing does no harm. 

POTATOES 

As one of the staple vegetables, potatoes 
are entitled to special consideration for 
winter storage. If you have raised a sur- 
plus crop in your own garden save as many 
as possible for your winter's supply. If 
you have none of your own raising it is well 
to buy them early in the fall, at the time 





of greatest supply and lowest prices, and 
store them for the winter, making yourself 
independent of the market during the time 
of highest prices. 

Potatoes may be stored in cellars, pits 
and outdoor cellars, as already described. 
Before they are stored they should be al- 
lowed to dry. This is done by digging 




Fig. 7 — This shows cabbage, pulled with roots, stored 
in .1 shallow trench, with roots down. The roots are 
covered with earth. The stakes, projecting 2 feet 
above the surface of the earth, serve as supports for 
boards or poles which make an enclosure. This frame 
should be banked with dirt (b). Across the top place 
poles or plank and cover with straw, hay or corn 
fodder (a). Make the trench as long as necessary and 
any width up to 8 feet. 



them on bright days, if possible, and allow- 
ing them to lie alongside the rows for a few 
hours. Before storing sort them carefully 
as to size and soundness. The smaller pota- 
toes and those which show signs of threatened 
decay should not be stored, but should be 
used early. 

The success of potato storage depends on 
the exclusion of light, proper ventilation, 
the proper amount of moisture, the size of 
the pile or container and the type of the 
tubers stored. 

In storing potatoes it should be remem- 
bered that the purpose is to protect them 
from great changes of temperature and 
from light. Even a small amount of light 
changes the food value of potatoes. There 
should be enough moisture to keep the pota- 
toes from wilting, but not enough to cause 
moisture to gather on the surface. 

If potatoes are stored in a place where 
there is moisture in the air, provision should 
be made to permit free circulation of air 
through the containers. Barrels, boxes and 
bins may be ventilated by boring holes in 
sides and bottoms. Barrels, boxes and crates 
should be set on slats to hold them off the 
floor and allow the air to circulate underneath. 
If the storage place is light a blanket, several 
thicknesses of paper, or old sacks should be 
placed on top of the containers. 

If the air of the storage place is dry it 
should not be allowed to circulate freely 
through the containers, as dry air will 
cause withering of the potatoes. In such 
storage places the potatoes should be put 



STORE YOUR SURPLUS FOR WINTER 



29 



in containers made airtight by lining bot- 
tom and sides with several thicknesses of 
newspaper and covering the top snugly in 
the same manner. 

The temperature of a cellar storage room 
for potatoes should be carefully controlled 




"fe'Si^i 



Fig. 8 — A barrel can be made into a Kood storage pit for 
cabbage, turnips, potatoes etc. Barrel is placed on its 
side and covered witli straw and dirt. 



to prevent wide fluctuations. A constant 
temperature around 40 degrees F. is desir- 
able. It should not be allowed to go below 
32 degrees or above 50 degrees. 

Potatoes should not be washed before 
storage. If they begin sprouting in the 
spring all the shoots should be rubbed off. 
The bins should be examined occasionally 
and any rotting potatoes removed to pre- 
vent the spread of infection. 

Bins 

Do not have one large bin for potatoes, 
as those in the center will be subjected to 
too high temperature, which will cause all 
of them to go through a sweating process. 
Too large a bin makes good ventilation im- 
possible. Open bins, not more than a foot 
deep, arranged as a shelf, as shown in Fig. 
3, are excellent for cellar storage. Another 
good arrangement of shelf storage for certain- 
crops is shown in Fig. 4. 

Pits 

A small pit provided with ventilation, as 
shown in Fig. 5, is the most satisfactory. 
It is better to have several small pits than 
one large one, as the entire contents must be 
removed when a pit is opened. Pkice not 
more than two to six weeks' sujiplj^ in a 
single pit. 

SWEET POTATOES 

In storing sweet potatoes the important 
points to be kept in mind are that the pota- 
toes must be well matured before they 
are dug; they must be handled with ex- 
treme care; they must be allowec^to dry or 
cure thoroughly before storage, and they 
must be kept at an even temperature. A 
test for maturity is to cut or break a sweet 
potato and expose it to the air for a few 
minutes. If the surface of the cut or break 



dries the potato may be considered mature, 
but if moisture remains on the surface it is 
not properly ripe. In sections where frosts 
come early digging should take place about 
the time the first frost is expected, without 
regard to maturity. Care in handling is nec- 
essary to prevent bruising and subsequent 
decay. Curing is done by keeping them at 
an even temperature of 80 to 85 degrees F. 
for a week or ten days after harvesting, to 
dry off the moisture. The room in which 
this is done must be ventilated in order that 
the moisture-laden air may escape. 

For storing sweet potatoes on a large 
scale a specially constructed house is de- 
sirable. For home storage the roots may 
be kept near the furnace in the cellar or 
near the furnace chimney in a vacant up- 
stairs room or in the attic. The room 
should be kept fairly warm. After curing 
the temperature should be maintained 
around 55 degrees F. 

Care should be taken not to store sweet 
potatoes which are infested with the sweet 
potato weevil or root-weevil, one of the 
most serious pests of the Gulf region. This 
pest practically confines itself to destruc- 
tion of the tubers after harvesting. When 
the tubers are found infested they should 
be fumigated with carbon disulphid, to be 
procured at a drug store. Place the tubers 
in a box or other container which can be 
tightly closed. The carbon disulphid is a 
liquid which gives off fumes heavier than 
air, and one ounce per bushel should be 
placed in an open dish on top of the roots 
and the container closed. Do not allow 
open lights or fire in the presence of this 
gas as it is highly explosive. All badly 
affected roots should be burned. 




Fig. 9 — This shows celery set into an outdoor pit or 
trench for storage. Boards should be placed along the 
edges of the pit or trench and dirt banked against these 
boards. The tops of the celery should be covered with 
corn fodder, straw or similar covering. The celery 
may be removed easily at any time. 

APPLES 

Apple storage is simple and is desirable 
not only for those who grow their own 
apples but also for those who depend on 
the market for their supply. The one es- 
sential is that the fruit be kept in a cool, 



30 



HOME STORAGE— SEED SAVING 



dry place, and so stored as to be in no danger 
of absorbing odors from vegetables stored 
nearby. 

Families raising no apples, but having a 
good storage place, meeting the require- 
ments as to temperature, will find it advan- 
tageous to buy a winter's supply in the 
fall, when prices are low. The cost of pur- 
chases thus made will be considerably less 
than if apples are bought as needed during 
the winter. 

To store, sort apples carefully, removing 
and using at once all fruit which is bruised 
or shows signs of decay. The best results 
are secured by wrapping each apple in half 
a sheet of newspaper and storing in barrels, 
boxes, crates or bins. The wrapping pre- 
vents the apples from touching each other 
and thus prevents the spread of decay which 
may start. It also protects the apples from 
odors if vegetables are stored nearby. Apples 
absorb odors freely from potatoes, onions, 
turnips and other vegetables and should never 
be stored, unwrapped, in the same room with 
vegetables of any kind. In addition to wrap- 



ping the individual apples it is desirable to 
line the barrel or other container with a half 
inch thickness of newspapers, on the bottom 
and sides, and then cover the top with news- 
papers and either nail a cover on or tie the 
papers securely with strings. This will keep 
odors out. The lining and covering give 
full protection and make it possible to store 
apples in the general cellar storage room. 

Remember that the cellar or other place 
in which they are stored must be cool. A 
temperature of 32 degrees F. is ideal, and 
the temperature should not be allowed to go 
above 40 degrees if it can be held this low„ 

Apples may be stored unwrapped in bar- 
rels, boxes, crates or bins if proper atten- 
tion is paid to sorting, to providing a cool 
place for storage and to occasional sort- 
ing during the winter, for the removal of 
possible decaj'ed fruit. If any of the fruit 
in any container is found to have begun 
to decay all the apples in all the containers 
should be sorted at once and decaying fruit 
removed. Apples stored unwrapped must 
not be kept in the room with vegetables. 



SAVE NEXT YEAR'S SEED FROM THIS YEAR'S GARDEN 



Owners of gardens will find that the saving 
of seed from this year's gardens will be of 
great help for next year's planting. While 
it is more satisfactory, ordinarily, to purchase 
seed from reliable dealers 
the increased planting of 
home gardens, the poor 
crop of seed, the decrease 
of foreign importation, 
the exporting of certain 
seed to Europe and the 
use of certain kinds for 
food have caused a short- 
age and, as an emergency 
measure, each gardener 
should save as much seed 
as possible. 

Saving of seed is easily 
done, though it requires 
care and attention. In 
saving seed select them 
from plants of a single 
variety grown by itself 
if possible, rather than 
from plants where more 
than one variety have 
been planted. Where there are two or 
more varieties of the same vegetable 
growing side by side, cross fertilization 
takes place and standard seed cannot be 
obtained. It is well to learn all the features 
which make up the most desirable type of 
variety of vegetable from which seed is to 
be saved. Seed saved where it is grown has 




j.''ig. 10 — In selecting 
corn to be saved for 
seed, choose the inost 
perfect ears. 



two advantages. For one thing more careful 
selection can be given than is possible for all 
seed placed on the market. Another advan- 
tage is that plants from this seed will succeed 
best under local conditions. 

Select seed plants which are free from 
disease, which show a vigorous growth, a 
good yield and quality, and mature early. 
Mark selected plants with string. Plants 
selected for seed should be given especially 
careful cultivation and 
every effort should be 
made to promote their 
full development. When 
seed is ripe harvest with 
care. 

Seed properly stored, 
with the exception of 
parsnip and onion, 
should retain vitality 
from 2 to 5 years. Thus 
enough seed may be 
saved from a good crop 
to tide over the poor 
years. 

SEED MATURING IN 
ONE YEAR 

Some of the seed de- 
sirable for saving be- 
cause they mature in 
one year are: 

Beaxs — Select the best plants and let the 
pods mature. Pull up plants preferably in 




Fig. 11 — A good way 
of hanging seed corn 
to dry. 



SAVE THIS YEAR'S SEED FOR NEXT YEAR'S GARDEN 31 



the early morning, to prevent shattering. 
Place plants in a dry, well aired place until 
seed are hard. Shell and spread in a layer 
until dry. 

Sweet Corn — Select the ears just at 
maturity and while on plants, as plant must 
be considered as well as the ear. The plant 
should be free from disease and preferably 
have two or more good ears to the stalk. The 
distance between joints should be short and 
the ears set on short, strong shanks. Ears 
should be nearly cylindrical and should taper 
but slightly from butts 
to tips. They should 
be well filled out, with 
husks tightly folded 
over ears. Pick ears 
from plants maturing 
at nearly the same time, 
uniform in size, strong 
and well rooted. Me- 
dium sized ears are 
Ijest. When fully ma- 
ture strip down husks 
and string up 10-15 
cars in a dry shady 
place so as to dry out 
ears quickly. 

Cucumbers and 
Summer Squash — 
Select desirable fruits 
when in the . usable 
stage. Allow them to 
remain on vines until 
ripe, as indicated by 
change of color or 
hardening of surface. 
Remove the seed from 
the ripe fruit and wash 
free of pulp. Spread 
in a thin layer in the 
sunshine to dry, stirring 
frequently. A quart 
or less should dry satisfactorily in a day. 

Eggplant — When fruit is opened for 
food, select the best formed seed, wash and 
dr>'. 

Lettuce — Plants for seed should be 
started early enough so that seed setting 
and ripening does not occur during the 
hot weather. With heading varieties it 
may be necessary to cut across the tops 
of the heads to allow the seed stalks to 
push through. When seed heads turn white 
and open, cut or pull the plants, put heads 
in paper bags and hang in a dry place until 
seed are ripened and drop out of heads, or 
lay the plants on a table in a dry airy place. 

Potatoes — Select productive seed hills, as 
nearly free from disease as possible. Potatoes 
should be true as to variety, which means 
that a late variety should not be substituted 




Fig. 12 — To remove 
kernels when propar- 
inii to plant or to test 
seed, insert knife be- 
tween rows and pry 
sideways. 




Fig. 13 — Hubbard squash. A 
good type winter squash for 
seed. 



for early variety if the crop is to be harvested 
early. Early varieties cannot be substituted 
for late varieties as they are not as productive. 
Seed potatoes should be kept dormant in a 
dark, cool place until planting time. The 
production of 
long sprouts, or 
wilting, will re- 
duce the vigor. 
Rub off the long 
sprouts, before 
the potatoes are 
planted. 

Radishes — 
Select the finest 
roots and cut off 
all but' a few 
central leaves. 
Put the roots in 
a moist, airy 
place for a short 

time and then plant them with the crown 
an inch below the surface. When seed 
ripen, cut plants and lay on paper exposed 
in the sun. ^^'hen the outside covering ig 
dry, then rub out seed, dry and store. 

Tomatoes — Gather fruit from selected 

plants when a little 

over ripe, but not de- 
cayed. The seed may 

be freed by one of 

two methods. One of 

these is to crush the 

fruit, and force through 

a sieve, and then put 

the seed in a coarse 

cloth and press out 

pulp under water. 

Another method is to 

crush fruit, put in a 

container and allow to 

ferment for two or 

three days, stirring 

once in a while. The 

seed settle and the pulp 

which rises may be 

poured off. Wash the 

seed in clear water 

an dry. 

Winter Squash, Pumpkin, Muskmelon, 
Watermelon 

When fruit is opened for food, select the 
best formed seed, wash and dry. 

SEED MATURING IN TWO YEARS 

Such vegetables as beets, carrots, parsnip, 
salsify, cabbage, etc., which require one season 
in which to grow will produce seed in the 
second year. Seeds of beets, carrots, cauli- 
flower, turnips and late radishes are not often 
grown satisfactorily in the home garden. 




Fig. 14 — Seeding 
plants of onion in blos- 
som. They should be 
staked. 



32 



SEED SAVING 



They must be carefully stored during the 
winter. Root crops of late planting are most 
satisfactory for seed. Select those of the best 
shape, color and size. Cut off all but an inch 
or two of the leaf stems and store in a frost 
proof pit or cellar. If a cellar is used protect 
the roots from withering by putting them in 
sand, fine soil or sifted coal ashes. They 
should be kept very slightly moist. Do not 
store them in a heated cellar. 

Cabbage — In the fall select the best 
heads, pull up entire plants and store them in 
a trench. Next spring set out two or more 
plants as one plant alone rarely produces 
seed. It may be necessary to cut the head 
across the top to allow the seed stalk to 
develop. When the seed pods turn yellow 
cut off the stalk and lay it on paper in a cool 
shady place to dry; early morning is the best 
time to gather. Rub out the seed when the 
pod is dry. Do not grow kale, collards, 
cabbage or kohlrabi — any two of them — in 
the same garden, as they will cross-fertilize. 

Onions — vSeed bearing bulbs should be well 
rooted. In the fall plant them 3 inches deep. 
As cold weather approaches cover with earth 
to protect them from freezing. In the spring 
remove the ridges. The seed stalks should 
be supported with stakes. When most of the 
seed is ripe cut out the seed stalks, dry in the 
sunshine and rub out the seed. 



Parsnips — These may be left in the ground 
all winter. In the spring plant selected roots 
3 to 5 feet apart in row. When seed are ripe 
cut seed stalk and dry. 

STORAGE OF SEED 

Put heavy seed, such as beans and peas, in 
cloth bags; smaller seed in paper bags or 
envelopes. Label each bag carefully, inside 
and out, as to contents. To protect seed 
from mice put the bags in perforated tin 
boxes. A bread box makes an ideal storage 
place for seed. An upstairs room or attic 
room, provided it is not warm, is a very 
good place in which to store seed. The room 
must be dry and well ventilated to prevent 
molding. 

Stored seed should be occasionally ex- 
amined for insects. If insects or weevils are 
present fumigate with carbon bisulphid, a 
liquid which vaporizes, producing a gas 
heavier than air. To fumigate, place the 
seed in an air-tight receptacle and pour the 
carbon bisulphid over the seed. Open to air 
in from 24 to 36 hours. Use an ounce of 
carbon bisulphid to a bushel of seed. Car- 
bon bisulphid is very inflammable and fire 
or flame must not be taken near the fumi- 
gating receptacle. Disregard of this precau- 
tion will result in an explosion. 



This manual was prepared by the Commission's experts and is based on their 
own research and experience, supplemented by information procured from the 
United States Department of Agriculture, Agricultural Colleges, Experiment 
Stations, and other sources. 

The National War Garden Commission, wishing to do all within its power to 
aid the War Industries Board in the very necessary economy in the use of paper, 
has limited the edition of this book and asks those who receive it in quantity to 
make the most careful distribution so that the book may reach the hands of 
none but those who will use it. IF THE INDIVIDUAL RECIPIENT CAN NOT 
USE THIS BOOK IT IS URGED THAT IT BE HANDED TO SOME ONE WHO 
WILL USE IT. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 



Page 

Cold frame and Hotbed 7 

Community gardening 1 

Community storage 24 

Cultivation 11 

DISEASES AND INSECTS 16 

FERTILIZERS — 

Commercial 5 

Compost 5 

Green manure 6 

INDOOR PLANTING 9 

PLANTING— 

Continuous crops 11 

Fall crops 10 

Succession of crops 10 

Table for planting 23 

Time of planting 10 

POTATOES— 

Growing 12 

Diseases and insects 21 

Storage 28 



Page 
POTATOES, SWEET — 

Growing 13 

Storage ; 29 

SEED — 

Quantity to buy 9 

Saving for next year 30 

Testing before planting 8 

SPRAYING 16 

SOIL 5,7 

STORAGE— 

Apples 29 

Cellar 24 

Outdoor cellar 27 

Pit 26 

Seed 32 

Various methods 27 

T>0OLS 7 



UNITED STATES FOOD ADMINISTRATION 



MR. P. S. RIDSDALE, Secretary, 

National War Garden Commission, 
WASHINGTON, D. C. 



Mobile, Alabama. 
September 6th, 1918 



Dear Mr. Ridsdale: 

I desire to tender my sincere thanks for the books which you have furnished 
for distribution and use among the war gardeners of Mobi e, and as encourage- 
ment ^d assistance to others to take up th:s splendid work conducive not only 
to increased supply of food products, but to the health and happmess of those 
who wfse^ygiv? Mother Ear?h the attention which just at this time she all the 
more richly deserves. 

It is needless for me to assure you that the books have been extremely 
helpful I consider them the most complete and serviceable ever produced, 
and excepting only the family Bible, the foundation of all ethics and morality as 
well as the commo^n law, these books are of more vital importance to every house- 
holder, in facTgood citizens throughout the land, than most printed matter 

obtainable. . , , i j 

Your books on canning and drying are likewise of inestimable value and 
vour splendid co-operation in the common cause of mcreasmg and conservmg 
Se food supply in our present crisis meets with the heartiest appreciation. 

Very sincerely, 
(Signed) HENRY A. FORCHHEIMER, 

Federal Food Administration Board. 



UNITED STATES FOOD ADMINISTRATION 

Davenport, lowa.^ 
September 5, 1918. 
MR. P. S. RIDSDALE, Secretary, 

National War Garden Commission, 
WASHINGTON, D. C. 

My dear Mr. Ridsdale: 

We have found your publications of great value in our work in this State 
and k gives me pleasure to thank you for your prompt and cordial compliance 
with all of our requests. , ^ • j 

Your book on War Vegetable Gardening and the one devoted to Canning and 
Drying are fiUed with information of great value to the gardener and housewife. 

It has been a source of great satisfaction to us to be able to distribute your 
books in every County in loL and we.have used care to place them m the hands 
Xeop"e who need them and who are constantly calling for just the information 
contained in them. 

We .feel that your co-operation has been of great importance. 

Faithfully yours, 

(Signed) M. L. PARKER, 

State Merchant Representative, 

Iowa Food Administration. 




.Pa% 000 928 780 2 




After J. X. Darling, in New York Tribune. 



NATIONAL WAR GARDEN COMMISSION 

A Patriotic Organization Affiliated with the Conservation Department 
of the American Forestry Association 

WASHINGTON, D. C. 



Charles Lathrop Pack, President. 



Percival S. Ridsdale, Secretary. 

Luther Burbank, Calif. 

Dr. Charles W. Eliot, Mass. 

Dr. Irving Fisher, Conn. 

Fred H. Goff, Ohio 

John Hays Hammond, Mass. 

Fairfax Harrison, Va. 

Hon. Myron T. Herrick, Ohio. 



Norman C. McLoud, Associate Secretary. 

Dr. John Grier Hibben, X. J. 

EMERSok McMillin, N. Y. 

Charles Lathrop Pack, N. J. 

A. W. Shaw, 111. 

Mrs. John Dickinson Sherman, 111. 

Capt. J. B. White, Mo. 

Hon. James Wilson, Iowa. 



P. P. Claxton, U. S. Commissioner of Education. 



